Laguna Lodge
Santa Cruz La Laguna, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala
Reviewed by
Claire Boobbyer
The deep waters of Atitlán rest in a giant super crater formed when a mega-volcano blew its top some 85,000 years ago. Surrounded by 3 conical volcanoes, with colourful villages dotted along its shore, this 1,565m-high lake is sacred to the local Maya, who believe the world was born from its primordial depths.
Pegged to a sheer cliff face in a hidden corner of Atitlán and only accessible by water is Laguna Lodge, a stone and thatch construction that sits in marked contrast with the backpacker guesthouses normally found around the lake. Created by eco-tourism pioneers Mayah (a Kiwi) and Jeffro (an Australian), its appeal lies in its blend of impeccable environmental credentials and modern luxuries, including a spa, a gourmet restaurant, 7 spacious lake-facing rooms and a 2-bedroom villa. It’s perfect for romancing couples, who will enjoy lazing in the outdoor pool at the water’s edge and dining on candlelit terraces. Nature lovers and twitchers will be in their element, too, as the private reserve on which the lodge sits is home to rare belted flycatchers, blue-throated motmots and other colourful birds.
Pegged to a sheer cliff face in a hidden corner of Atitlán and only accessible by water is Laguna Lodge, a stone and thatch construction that sits in marked contrast with the backpacker guesthouses normally found around the lake. Created by eco-tourism pioneers Mayah (a Kiwi) and Jeffro (an Australian), its appeal lies in its blend of impeccable environmental credentials and modern luxuries, including a spa, a gourmet restaurant, 7 spacious lake-facing rooms and a 2-bedroom villa. It’s perfect for romancing couples, who will enjoy lazing in the outdoor pool at the water’s edge and dining on candlelit terraces. Nature lovers and twitchers will be in their element, too, as the private reserve on which the lodge sits is home to rare belted flycatchers, blue-throated motmots and other colourful birds.
Highs
- Surrounded by the sounds of nature - lapping water, tweeting birds - with otherworldly views of the lake and its guardian volcanoes from the rooms, restaurant and pool
- Over 100 acres of protected flora- and fauna-filled forest to explore, with a guide if you want, plus kayaks to paddle around
- Well-crafted, flavoursome and organic vegetarian cuisine, with a daily changing set menu - even hardened carnivores will be impressed
- Pampering treatments in the intimate Hummingbird Spa (hot-stone massages, Maya foot scrubs), plus a garden Jacuzzi - the perfect antidote to hikes around the reserve
- Evening drinks under the stars, and breakfasts in the company of busy hummingbirds as fishermen canoe back and forth
Lows
- Service is wonderfully friendly, but it can sometimes be a little slow as all food and drink is freshly made
- Some paths in the reserve are steep and slippery. Tread carefully, and make sure you take a map to make sense of the markers
- The sunbathing area on the jetty lacks privacy as it doubles as a public dock
- There's a strict payment and cancellation policy, and rates are subject to an additional 22% tax
Best time to go
Lake Atitlán is at its most stunning from November to April, when crystal-clear light outlines the volcanoes and makes the water resemble a bejewelled mantle spreading out beneath them. These months also bring the driest weather, though nights can be chilly in December, January and February. The rainy season lasts from May to October, and generally brings sunny skies in the morning and showers in the afternoon (so get up early for expeditions and exploring). There's a break from the rain in July; showers are heaviest in September. Prices rise at Easter and Christmas.
Our top tips
Take time to read the 2 interesting books provided for every guest on the bedside tables. One recounts Maya stories, the other provides a fascinating insight into local villages and traditions.