Lama di Luna
near Andria, Puglia & Basilicata, Italy
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
If you want to slip away from commercialism and clamour, book a cheap flight to Bari and head north to the somewhat unlikely environs of Andria. Here, amid low rocky hills overlooking the olive-studded coast, sits a fortified farm with 40 chimneys bristling around a gravelled courtyard. The great iron gates swing open and you're greeted by Pietro, a gentle, unassuming father of two who spends his summers harvesting olives and fruit, and his winters crafting furniture from giant fennel trunks.
Lama di Luna excels not for what it has, but what it doesn't have: no gimmicks, no distractions, no noise. You're ensconced in thick vaulted bedrooms, you sleep in unbleached cotton sheets on feng-shui beds, you wash with pure olive soap, you breakfast on organic jams and dine on homemade pasta. If you want to explore, the fantastical Bourbon Castel del Monte and the under-rated port of Trani await; by happy coincidence, one of Puglia's loveliest restaurants hides in the village down the lane. But don't plan too much: bring a good book, a special companion, and empty your mind. That's what it's all about.
Lama di Luna excels not for what it has, but what it doesn't have: no gimmicks, no distractions, no noise. You're ensconced in thick vaulted bedrooms, you sleep in unbleached cotton sheets on feng-shui beds, you wash with pure olive soap, you breakfast on organic jams and dine on homemade pasta. If you want to explore, the fantastical Bourbon Castel del Monte and the under-rated port of Trani await; by happy coincidence, one of Puglia's loveliest restaurants hides in the village down the lane. But don't plan too much: bring a good book, a special companion, and empty your mind. That's what it's all about.
Highs
- We think the place has soul, which is one of the hardest things to create in a hotel
- Pietro is a kind host, offering multilingual advice, free bicycles and advice on hikes or horse rides
- You can help harvest grapes, pick olives or make pizzas and pasta in the old oven
- Inspirational eco technology, including 48 solar panels and a computer-controlled heating system
- It's all very pure: no artificial materials, no sharp edges, totally tranquil at night
Lows
- The pool is quite cold
- Limited WiFi in some bedrooms
- The location lacks obvious wow factor, but there are interesting towns to explore nearby
- The nearest beaches (Barletta, Margherita di Savoia) are not Puglia's best
Best time to go
Come in spring (April-early June) or autumn (September-October) if you possibly can. The weather then is perfect for gentle exploration, and swimming is quite feasible until early November (though in April it's chilly). Summer gets quite busy, though not as hectic as the coastal resorts of course.
Our top tips
Most guests come for 2-3 days, but if you really want to unwind you could happily stay for 4-5 days without running out of things to do.