Lanta Pole Houses
Koh Lanta Yai, Krabi & Koh Lanta, Thailand
Reviewed by
Nicolas Buchele
Jutting out on stilts over the tranquil water, Lanta Old Town looks today much like the great trading cities of the South China Sea 300 years ago, from Hong Kong to Singapore. A charming and unique fishing village (also known as Ban Sri Raya), this is a world away from Koh Lanta's tourist crowds, yet just a short tuk-tuk ride from the island's glorious beaches. Those who want a more independent holiday - and a taste of authentic Thailand - will love it.
Tucked away amongst other charmingly ramshackle buildings in the curve of the bay are 2 wooden houses - Coconut and Lychee. Through the doors from the half-concealed street front, you enter an older world, where long spacious interiors of dark fragrant wood open out into nothing but sea and sky, with a few little boats and islets suspended on the horizon. But modernity has crept in since their construction, so you can travel back in time in air-conditioned comfort, keep an eye on reality through WiFi, and relax under a hot shower after the day’s exertions. At dusk, a chorus of cicadas strikes up in the National Park across the street, and you’re lulled to sleep at night by the plangent call of water fowl and the gentle sloshing of the ocean below.
Tucked away amongst other charmingly ramshackle buildings in the curve of the bay are 2 wooden houses - Coconut and Lychee. Through the doors from the half-concealed street front, you enter an older world, where long spacious interiors of dark fragrant wood open out into nothing but sea and sky, with a few little boats and islets suspended on the horizon. But modernity has crept in since their construction, so you can travel back in time in air-conditioned comfort, keep an eye on reality through WiFi, and relax under a hot shower after the day’s exertions. At dusk, a chorus of cicadas strikes up in the National Park across the street, and you’re lulled to sleep at night by the plangent call of water fowl and the gentle sloshing of the ocean below.
Highs
- Big wooden decks set on stilts over the water, with chairs and a hammock - you'll spend most of your time out here
- Peaceful, remote and good value for money; will work for couples (plus 2-4 kids) and long-term rentals
- Great Thai eateries are a stroll away and there are kitchens for simple self-catering
- Manager Susanna can organise day-trips on longtail boats, and there are lots of beach and jungle activities a short drive away
- Simple pleasures: a cup of tea with incredible sunrises, swimming, and fresh fish dinners
Lows
- Lychee is undergoing renovations so isn't available for bookings, but Coconut remains open as normal
- These are authentic wooden houses in a working fishing village, so walls aren’t soundproofed, neighbours are close by, and noise carries across the water. Perhaps not for honeymooners
- Stuff breaks down, water pressure is intermittent, and when it rains the power tends to go
- It’s like living in any small village: you need transport to get anywhere. You can hire scooters or grab tuk-tuks whenever you need to
- Entertainment is limited and the town shuts down at 9pm. Make your own (quiet) fun or head across the island to the tourist hotspots
Best time to go
Go during high season (November until April), when the weather is mostly dry, a little cooler, and sunshine is guaranteed. In the low season a lot of shops in the Old Town and elsewhere that target foreigners shut down, and the village gets very sleepy (though many restaurants remain open). It can rain cats and dogs in September and October. For independent people who won’t miss entertainment, the 'Green Season' (as we’re now encouraged to call the monsoon) might not be a bad idea, what with the prices and all. There are still plenty of sunny days from April to September.
Our top tips
Get a scooter (though 4WDs and bicycles can also be hired) to explore the island. Do note that while the roads are generally good, there are a few potholes that’ll have you mistaking your wife for a hat.