Jutting out on stilts over the tranquil water, Lanta Old Town looks today much like the great trading cities of the South China Sea 300 years ago, from Hong Kong to Singapore. A charming and unique fishing village (also known as Ban Sri Raya), this is a world away from Koh Lanta's tourist crowds, yet just a short tuk-tuk ride from the island's glorious beaches. Those who want a more independent holiday - and a taste of authentic Thailand - will love it.
Tucked away amongst other charmingly ramshackle buildings in the curve of the bay are 2 wooden houses - Coconut and Lychee. Through the doors from the half-concealed street front, you enter an older world, where long spacious interiors of dark fragrant wood open out into nothing but sea and sky, with a few little boats and islets suspended on the horizon. But modernity has crept in since their construction, so you can travel back in time in air-conditioned comfort, keep an eye on reality through WiFi, and relax under a hot shower after the day’s exertions. At dusk, a chorus of cicadas strikes up in the National Park across the street, and you’re lulled to sleep at night by the plangent call of water fowl and the gentle sloshing of the ocean below.
Highs
- Big wooden decks set on stilts over the water, with chairs and a hammock - you'll spend most of your time out here
- Peaceful, remote and good value for money; will work for couples (plus 2-4 kids) and long-term rentals
- Great Thai eateries are a stroll away and there are kitchens for simple self-catering
- Manager Susanna can organise day-trips on longtail boats, and there are lots of beach and jungle activities a short drive away
- Simple pleasures: a cup of tea with incredible sunrises, swimming, and fresh fish dinners
Lows
- Lychee is undergoing renovations so isn't available for bookings, but Coconut remains open as normal
- These are authentic wooden houses in a working fishing village, so walls aren’t soundproofed, neighbours are close by, and noise carries across the water. Perhaps not for honeymooners
- Stuff breaks down, water pressure is intermittent, and when it rains the power tends to go
- It’s like living in any small village: you need transport to get anywhere. You can hire scooters or grab tuk-tuks whenever you need to
- Entertainment is limited and the town shuts down at 9pm. Make your own (quiet) fun or head across the island to the tourist hotspots
Best time to go
Go during high season (November until April), when the weather is mostly dry, a little cooler, and sunshine is guaranteed. In the low season a lot of shops in the Old Town and elsewhere that target foreigners shut down, and the village gets very sleepy (though many restaurants remain open). It can rain cats and dogs in September and October. For independent people who won’t miss entertainment, the 'Green Season' (as we’re now encouraged to call the monsoon) might not be a bad idea, what with the prices and all. There are still plenty of sunny days from April to September.
Our top tips
Get a scooter (though 4WDs and bicycles can also be hired) to explore the island. Do note that while the roads are generally good, there are a few potholes that’ll have you mistaking your wife for a hat.
- Traditional Houses
- 2 houses (sleeping 2-6)
- Self-catering (restaurants nearby)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
Rooms
Coconut (sleeps 2-6)
Coconut is the more practical of the houses. Downstairs, the main room has an open-plan kitchenette with a breakfast bar, so you can perch and enjoy sea views with your cereal. Beyond is a spacious sitting area with a couple of wooden benches and Thai-style cushions, warmly lit by halogen strings at night. From here, you step through wooden folding doors onto the large deck with a thatched roof, where there's a dining table and some comfy outdoor sofas. At high tide and when the water is clear, you can dive right into the sea, though you may want to take the steps until you figure out how deep it is.
Streetside is an air-conditioned room with a queensize bed and two single beds, as well as a smart TV with Netflix. Up a slightly precarious wooden staircase lies the long master bedroom, with a firm double bed and a swivel fan to keep you cool (no a/c upstairs). A big teak wardrobe downstairs has plenty of hanging space.
The bathroom has a pebble floor and a shower - and should the pressure of the running water be too low, there’s a great terracotta urn to shower from. Towels are suspended from sawn-off tree trunks. Next door is a little w/c.
Lychee (sleeps 2-6)
Because it’s angled the ‘correct’ way, i.e. with the eaves side-on to the sea, Lychee feels bigger and more sumptuous. Through traditional double doors, you enter a biggish hallway with a bamboo table for your bike helmet. Beyond that lies two air-conditioned bedrooms with queensize beds and plenty of pillows, cushions, throws and blankets. There are built-in wardrobes in both.
The two bathrooms have a pebble floor and polished-concrete walls. There’s a rather clever sculptural rain shower, plus an open-air shower.
The main room features the kitchen, and on the other side is a big wooden desk and a sitting area with two additional single beds. There's a small TV with Netflix, and fast WiFi. Beyond that is the huge deck with interesting tropical plant life and some sofa seating.
Features include:
- Complimentary bottled water
- Fan
- Mosquito net
- WiFi
Eating
Each house has a kitchenette equipped with a 2-ring cooker, toaster, pots and pans, crockery and cutlery, plus a fridge-freezer. Coconut also has a barbecue on its deck.
Fresh milk, eggs, rice and other basic provisions are available locally and the ubiquitous 7 Eleven is a short walk away. Further afield, there’s a French bakery on the road to Phra Ae and a German one on Long Beach, with excellent streuselkuchen (crumb cake). The Lanta Mart in Saladan has cheese, salami, pasta, olive oil, cereals, frozen bacon and steaks.
Fresh-caught fish can be bought from the fishermen’s wives out of their ice boxes, about 50m left of the houses. Just look and point. Various farmers' markets have fresh vegetables, chicken and pork.
To eat out, Susanna provides a list of recommended restaurants. In the Old Town there are 2 good Thai places: Beautiful, at the far end, lives up to its name with romantic little private decks among the mangroves, and a charming owner. Fresh Restaurant, also over the water, is less beautiful but the food is good, down to the handful of Western dishes. Most of the Old Town restaurants offer delivery service, if you're feeling lazy. Along the high street, a few basic places have fried rice and such for lunch. Up on the hills in either direction are restaurants with stunning views.
The nearest tourist beach is Klong Nin, where barracuda steaks and pizza are on offer everywhere, and some hotels advertise fine dining.
Features include:
- Fridge
- Hob or stove
- Kitchenette
- Restaurants nearby
- Toaster
Activities
- Laze in the hammock on your deck, then at high tide, dive in for a swim
- If you enjoy fishing you can buy equipment in the village or bring your own
- Explore the nearby islets and deserted beaches by longtail boat
- Swim and dive. Swimming can be accessed from a rocky beach at the end of the street. Klong Nin is the nearest sandy beach, about 10-15 minutes by scooter or car. It’s studded with dive shops that also organise tours
- The nearest beach from the Old Town is Sang Ka Ou at the southern tip - tiny but well worth visiting for the whimsical forest sanctuary, with a tame monkey, mad statuary and sagacious maxims nailed to the trees
- The best beaches for swimming are at the southwest end, about a 25-minute drive uphill and down dale and along a dramatic coastline. Shade, drinks and showers are available at the bungalow operations
- Mai Kaeo Cave has impressive stalagmites and -tites. The tour takes about 2 hours including a half-hour jungle hike to and fro
- The Old Town goes to bed at 9pm sharp, though you can linger a little over drinks at Beautiful restaurant
- For a livelier experience in the high season, Klong Dan or Long Beach is a holidaymaker's paradise, where the surf slams into white sand fringed with bungalow and resort operations. Along the main road are ‘beer bars’, restaurants, souvenir shops and more bars
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Boat trips
- Fishing
- Nightlife
- Plantlife / flora
- Safaris
- Scuba diving
- Snorkelling
- Swimming
- Wildlife
Kids
Families are welcome and the houses each have two bedrooms, sleeping 6 in total. There’s plenty for children to do, late-afternoon winkle-picking is included, but there are no special facilities.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
Bopth houses have two double bedrooms and two single beds/daybeds. Note that baby cots are not available in either house.
Extra Beds Available
Families Should Know:
The houses are directly above the water so aren't recommended for families with toddlers, as little ones could fall.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The Lanta Pole Houses are set on Koh Lanta's east coast in the seaside fishing village of Ban Sri Raya, also known as Lanta Old Town.
By Air:
Krabi (60km) is the closest airport to Koh Lanta, and is served by internal flights from Bangkok (a flying time of 80 minutes). More frequent flights operate the Bangkok-Phuket route. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.
From the Airport
The easiest way is to take a taxi from Krabi airport. Those flying to Phuket can catch the public boat (see below).
By Boat from Phuket:
From Phuket you can catch the daily express boat service which runs all year, connecting Phuket with Koh Lanta via Koh Phi Phi. When you arrive on the island, you can take a cheap tuk-tuk from the harbour to Lanta Old Town.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Thailand and getting around
Airports:
- Krabi 60.0 km KBV
- Phuket International 150.0 km HKT
Other:
- Beach 5.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km