Lapa Rios Ecolodge
Puerto Jimenez, Osa Peninsula & South, Costa Rica
Reviewed by
Christabelle Dilks
The pioneer ecolodge, and still the shining star of all Costa Rica’s sustainable tourism projects, Lapa Rios is an idyllic retreat from modern life. Poised high on a hillside, each of its 17 bungalows and villas looks down over a thickly jungled valley of primary rainforest and the deep blue Pacific beyond. Awake to a chorus of tropical bird calls, and watch monkeys as you lie in the hammock on your secluded balcony.
Lapa Rios is absolutely serious about involving guests of all ages in its impressive sustainability programme, yet there’s nothing worthy about the superb food, the gorgeous beaches, or the warm friendliness of its staff. The genius of this place is that everyone who works here shares the owner’s vision: protecting the surrounding pristine nature, and welcoming guests as friends. Experience the full wonder of the rainforest as expert guides take you on marvellous hikes through the hotel’s private reserve. In the early morning light, watching a flock of scarlet macaws alighting on a tree, you'll reflect that this is a truly wondrous place. A complete experience of Costa Rica: if you choose just one place to visit in the country, make this it.
Lapa Rios is absolutely serious about involving guests of all ages in its impressive sustainability programme, yet there’s nothing worthy about the superb food, the gorgeous beaches, or the warm friendliness of its staff. The genius of this place is that everyone who works here shares the owner’s vision: protecting the surrounding pristine nature, and welcoming guests as friends. Experience the full wonder of the rainforest as expert guides take you on marvellous hikes through the hotel’s private reserve. In the early morning light, watching a flock of scarlet macaws alighting on a tree, you'll reflect that this is a truly wondrous place. A complete experience of Costa Rica: if you choose just one place to visit in the country, make this it.
Highs
- Unique and privileged location in one of the world’s most precious biospheres: primary forest hosting amazing wildlife including 375 species of birds; access to a 1,000 acre private rainforest reserve adjacent to Corcovado National Park
- Comfort in the wilderness: great beds, lovely pool, beautiful beaches, excellent organic food, even cocktails! No suffering for your sustainability here
- The staff couldn’t be kinder. Way beyond professional service, they create a very special and welcoming atmosphere
- Impressive sustainability credentials, particularly in social responsibility; a great place to bring your kids
- All on-site activities and excursions are included in the rate
Lows
- Some cabins are quite a walk from the main building, giving you a bit of a hike for breakfast. Guests with limited mobility can stay a bit closer
- It might seem pricey, but consider that all your meals, a bunch of excellent guided walks and activities, plus the transfer from Puerto Jiménez are all included
- Not for everyone – rooms have fans but no air con (except the Matapalo Suites), and you might find the odd bug, despite screened windows.
Best time to go
From May to December it rains more than the rest of the year, (generally in the afternoon) but it can sometimes rain for 3 days in a row. However, this is rainforest and walking in the rain doesn't ruin the experience. October is pretty bad, since the creeks rise and even the Land Rover can’t get through them. There are few people staying at Lapa Rios, though, so it’s much more intimate and it should still be dry enough to do the waterfall hike in the morning. January to April are the drier months, when it’s idyllic here. The busiest time of year is the second half of December, when you need to book a year in advance.
Our top tips
Make sure you do the sustainability tour which explains the lodge's impressive efforts to make a minimal environmental impact.
Look out for the card by your bed at night, wishing you a deep sleep: ‘Enjoy the sounds of nature! Don’t be afraid of the howler monkey’s screams that might awake you in the early morning. Be gentle with any animals or insects: they won’t harm you. Remember, us humans are only guests here'.
Look out for the card by your bed at night, wishing you a deep sleep: ‘Enjoy the sounds of nature! Don’t be afraid of the howler monkey’s screams that might awake you in the early morning. Be gentle with any animals or insects: they won’t harm you. Remember, us humans are only guests here'.