Reviewed by
Tom Bell
The Camargue is a mesmerising wilderness of floodland, salt flats, wildflowers and lagoons, edged with pristine sandy beaches, and home to white horses, black bulls and pink flamingos. On the eastern flank, this 1602 stone farmhouse is surrounded by its owners' 550-hectare estate, which is still actively farmed today. Roam free and lose yourself in simple beauty and magnificent silence.
The farmhouse effortlessly combines Provencial elegance with crisp, English minimalism, and is filled with splashes of modern art and French antiques. There are flagged floors, saddles on the walls, exposed stone fireplaces and wooden-beamed ceilings. Bedrooms have uncluttered richness: excellent beds, smart linen, polished wooden furniture, pillows piled high. Start your day with breakfast on the vine-clad terrace, then explore the landscape on horseback, before lazing by the pool for some serious sun worshipping and feasting on a delectable 4-course dinner with all-local ingredients. Your soul will thank you.
The farmhouse effortlessly combines Provencial elegance with crisp, English minimalism, and is filled with splashes of modern art and French antiques. There are flagged floors, saddles on the walls, exposed stone fireplaces and wooden-beamed ceilings. Bedrooms have uncluttered richness: excellent beds, smart linen, polished wooden furniture, pillows piled high. Start your day with breakfast on the vine-clad terrace, then explore the landscape on horseback, before lazing by the pool for some serious sun worshipping and feasting on a delectable 4-course dinner with all-local ingredients. Your soul will thank you.
Highs
- The peace and beauty are addictive
- Elegant interiors without the slightest hint of clutter
- All ingredients are sourced from within a 50-km radius of the property, and dishes are delectably creative
- You couldn’t get more of an authentic Camargue experience: there are horses to ride, and the family are famous for their bulls and their rice
- The birdwatching is excellent, and wild sandy beaches are only a short drive away
Lows
- The Camargue is pretty flat, but if you like watery wilderness, you’ll love it
- You need a car to make the most of the area
- Note that the restaurant is closed Sunday evenings, and in spring and autumn also on Mondays and lunchtimes Tue-Fri; it's popular with outsiders so best to book ahead
Best time to go
Late spring and early autumn are perfect as the weather is warm and the area is quiet, plus you can watch the hordes of migrating birds pass overhead. In June there’s a horse-riding festival, while in July there is the lively 5-day 'Feria du Cheval' (parades and dressage), both in Saintes Maries. The Abrivado (bull-marching) festivals are in March (Le Grau du Roi) and November (Saintes Maries).
Our top tips
Start the day by riding one of the farmhouse’s white horses. Walking across the salt flats watching the morning mist play over the rugged landscape, revealing black bulls and wildflowers, was simply mesmeric.
We’d also suggest you pack a picnic and borrow one of the hotel’s bikes to pedal to Plage de Beauduc, which can’t be accessed by car. No matter the time of year, you’ll always be able to find a quiet, unspoilt spot.
We’d also suggest you pack a picnic and borrow one of the hotel’s bikes to pedal to Plage de Beauduc, which can’t be accessed by car. No matter the time of year, you’ll always be able to find a quiet, unspoilt spot.