Leaves and Lizards
nr La Fortuna, Arenal & Monteverde, Costa Rica
Reviewed by
Christabelle Dilks
It’s quite something to wake up and see Arenal Volcano out of your window, spurting its plume of smoke against a clear blue sky. Each of the cabins and houses have this tremendous view, inspiring you to sit down on the balcony and paint, or lie back in a hammock and marvel.
Beautifully situated on a hilltop, each comfortable cabin - with its hand-painted mural - has a large bedroom and everything you need, from a wildlife guidebook to drinks in the fridge. Then it’s a short walk up the steep lane to the main house, where owners Steve and Debbie will make you feel immediately at home. Explore their farm, ride horses into the rainforest, hike into Arenal Volcano National Park, or go birdwatching with their resident expert guide. This is a rare chance to explore real Costa Rican country life. There’s lots to keep you entertained for a few days here, and your hosts couldn’t do more to make you feel welcome. Bliss for families, or for independent travellers wanting to escape.
Beautifully situated on a hilltop, each comfortable cabin - with its hand-painted mural - has a large bedroom and everything you need, from a wildlife guidebook to drinks in the fridge. Then it’s a short walk up the steep lane to the main house, where owners Steve and Debbie will make you feel immediately at home. Explore their farm, ride horses into the rainforest, hike into Arenal Volcano National Park, or go birdwatching with their resident expert guide. This is a rare chance to explore real Costa Rican country life. There’s lots to keep you entertained for a few days here, and your hosts couldn’t do more to make you feel welcome. Bliss for families, or for independent travellers wanting to escape.
Highs
- A warm welcome from your North American hosts Debbie and Steve
- Comfortable family-sized cabins and houses are great for longer stays and good value for money
- A rare chance to be off the beaten track, with wonderful views all around, close to Arenal Volcano for unique activities, and yet have many creature comforts
- Fun for kids: ride well-behaved horses, swim in the pool, visit the owners’ working farm, and another larger farm nearby
- Delicious, locally-produced food, cooked by the Costa Rican staff
Lows
- Not the kind of place where you’ll be waited on hand and foot, but the welcome is warm
- You could feel a bit isolated here without a car - this is really perfect for people who want to immerse themselves in the country for a while
- The 5-8 minute walk up from the cabins to the main house, for all meals and activities, is steep (and Toucan cabin is 15 minutes away)
- As with any rainforest retreat, expect close encounters with creepy-crawlies
Best time to go
It's beautiful all year round. November to April are the best for sunshine, though December to March is high season, and Arenal gets very busy and everywhere books up fast, though Leaves and Lizards remains tranquil. The ‘Green’ season, from May to September is a great time to visit: it’s sunny in the mornings - and this is when you should get out and make the most of the surrounding area - and rainy in the afternoons. For a couple of weeks in late June, early July, there’s often a veranillo - 'little summer' - when there's a spell of hot, dry days. The rain can be strong in September and October.
Our top tips
Come for at least three nights, four if you're planning to spend a day exploring Arenal. Families should consider staying for a week as children will love it here.