Les Rosees
Mougins, Cote d'Azur, France
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
A gravel path leads up through four terraces, past rambling roses, secluded sit-outs, honeysuckle and the pool to the shade of a tamarind tree, where lines of lavender direct you to the front door; at night candles illuminate the path. This 400-year-old mas is a beautifully crafted house, both inside and out, endlessly charming and very homely, a place to escape the coastal crowds and luxuriate in blissful tranquility.
Silks draped over elegant sofas, a candelabra on a grand piano signed by Liza Minnelli (who used to stay for the Cannes Film festival), lime-washed walls, and an open fire in one room with a pane of glass in the bathroom so you can watch the flames flicker while you soak. The five suites are unique and carefully thought out: beamed and warm in colour, with huge baths, ample storage, sublimely comfortable beds, fine Ralph Lauren linen and Bose sound systems. A Breakfast, a classic Provencal affair in keeping with the aesthetic of the guesthouse, is taken on the terrace looking out at the lush garden, or in the cosy dining room. Dinner was the best we had on our trip by a country mile. Made famous by the great and the good including Picasso who spent his last decade here, hilltop town Mougins has a plethora of art galleries, sculptures, fine restaurants, long views and a food market. The perfume factories of Grasse, the fleshpots of Cannes and golf are also nearby. Perfect.
Silks draped over elegant sofas, a candelabra on a grand piano signed by Liza Minnelli (who used to stay for the Cannes Film festival), lime-washed walls, and an open fire in one room with a pane of glass in the bathroom so you can watch the flames flicker while you soak. The five suites are unique and carefully thought out: beamed and warm in colour, with huge baths, ample storage, sublimely comfortable beds, fine Ralph Lauren linen and Bose sound systems. A Breakfast, a classic Provencal affair in keeping with the aesthetic of the guesthouse, is taken on the terrace looking out at the lush garden, or in the cosy dining room. Dinner was the best we had on our trip by a country mile. Made famous by the great and the good including Picasso who spent his last decade here, hilltop town Mougins has a plethora of art galleries, sculptures, fine restaurants, long views and a food market. The perfume factories of Grasse, the fleshpots of Cannes and golf are also nearby. Perfect.
Highs
- The owners, Kilpérick and wife Jenny, will look after you with great charm; they're a font of local knowledge and pull out all the stops to make your stay special
- Great home-cooked food with ingredients plucked straight from the mas' organic garden, plus a good selection of restaurants in Mougins
- Very individual rooms with a real sense of space and comfort
- Delightful, slightly wild and wonderfully scented gardens, a great spot to top up the tan
- Hidden in the gardens, shabby chic Suite Gypsy is a great romantic bolthole
Lows
- Airport transfers can be arranged but we recommend you rent a car – Mougins' historic centre and eateries are a 25-minute uphill walk (or a 5-minute hop in the car)
- The house is overlooked by a couple of houses across the road
- Traffic in the Cote d’Azur can be crazy in summer
- No TV or phone in the rooms
Best time to go
With 300+ days of sun, this area of France is great to visit at any time of year. July and August see the region packed with holiday-makers.
Our top tips
St Paul de Vence is well worth a visit, a picturesque hilltop village packed with expensive art galleries. We loved the famous Fondation Maeght with a large collection of works by Chagall, Braque, Giacometti and others.