L'Hotel in Pietra
Matera, Puglia & Basilicata, Italy
Reviewed by
Abigail Blasi
Perched high up in the sassi (Matera’s old town quarters, built into and over caves), a converted 13th-century Benedictine church houses L’Hotel in Pietra. The reception-breakfast room occupies the sometime nave, with soaring ceiling and looping tall arches. All of the characterful rooms are different, imaginative conversions of the unusual spaces the old buildings provide. Most have extraordinary views, too - over the town and across to the cathedral. The peace is palpable: the sassi lanes are too narrow and stepped for vehicles.
Down in the town centre, there's also a beautiful apartment, complete with exposed stonework and lofty windows. In both locations, a mix of French, Italian and Brazilian furniture decorates, lovely solid pieces arranged with a pared-down simplicity. Walls are pale exposed stone, a warm gold. Modernist touches marry well with the antiquity, such as large low, wood-edged double beds and thick glass partitions.
Down in the town centre, there's also a beautiful apartment, complete with exposed stonework and lofty windows. In both locations, a mix of French, Italian and Brazilian furniture decorates, lovely solid pieces arranged with a pared-down simplicity. Walls are pale exposed stone, a warm gold. Modernist touches marry well with the antiquity, such as large low, wood-edged double beds and thick glass partitions.
Highs
- A remarkable place to stay in a remarkable city - Matera is utterly beautiful and the hotel is so unique and full of character
- Beautiful, pared-down design, with antiques and carved-wood furniture set against sandstone arches, cave interiors and thick glass
- A laid-back relaxed atmosphere and the self-catering Loft 79 apartment is ideal for more independent travellers
- Utter tranquillity - the sassi are interconnected via tiny lanes unsuitable for traffic
- Owners are proud of their hotel and eager to please
- The rooms, hotel and whole town is impossibly romantic
Lows
- The Standard Single (1001) is extremely tiny and snug - but the room has a good view
- Not for the athletically challenged - most rooms have steep or uneven stairs and some have ladders, plus there are steps to reach the entrance of the hotel
- The nearest on-street parking is 80m away; their private garage is 300m away, but this is the nature of staying in the sassi
- This is cave living, so the atmosphere may feel a little damp at times - worth it for us, but guests with respirotary problems may feel otherwise
Best time to go
Spring (May-June) is the best time to visit. July and August are very hot, and tend to be the busiest time. September and October are crowd free and can be balmy, but the weather is unpredictable and may also be a bit cold. Winters are cold, though atmospheric - you might even get a sprinkling of snow. On 2 July, a huge statue of the Madonna Bruna is paraded through town before being torn apart and burned, accompanied by a spectacular fireworks display.
Our top tips
Staying in Matera’s sassi is not for people who find steps difficult. Artists, photographers and those interested in architecture and local history will love it.