Todd Warnock had just played a round of golf at the Royal Dornoch when he spied a For Sale sign among a tangle of vegetation. He knocked on the door and so began the next chapter of this 19th-century sandstone manse's colourful history. What Dornoch needed, he surmised, was a hotel to match the calibre of its course. A few wrangles with Historic Scotland later, and his vision came true. The picturesque coastal town, once a royal burgh, and a handy pitstop on the NC500 roadtrip, now has a luxurious small hotel with outdoor activities on the menu, a gourmet restaurant – celebrating Scotland's legendary larder and seasoned with home-grown garden herbs – and its own bespoke tweed.
The original Georgian house, its façade pristinely repointed, is now flanked by two new builds, The Mews and Glenshiel, which mirror its golden grandeur; across all three are 15 well-appointed rooms and suites. The whole place has the solid stateliness of a high-end American resort, but on a small scale and with character. Antique furniture was sourced from across Scotland, old books on country pursuits were carefully curated and stored in a pine-panelled library, and the artworks on the walls were hand-picked, with antique fishing rods displayed up the staircase. The famous Royal Dornoch golf course is right outside; a stunning beach is nearby. And outdoor pursuits of many forms offer the chance to immerse yourself in this ruggedly wild and beautiful corner of north-east Scotland.
Highs
- One of Scotland's most spectacular sweeps of wild, dune-backed sand is a short stroll away
- Borrow putters and balls from reception for the mini putting green between the manse and Mews, or swing around Royal Dornoch golf course
- The quality of the food in MARA is exceptional. And if you're hiking or biking, the chef will pack a picnic or packed lunch for you – salmon sarnies anyone?
- Decadent touches are everywhere including complimentary cocktails of hand-mixed mini bottles of Negroni in your supremely comfortable room
- Don't miss the indulgent afternoon tea with champagne and oven-warm scones, gooey jam and clotted cream
Lows
- The background music at dinner is a little dated
- If you like a lingering soak, rooms in the manse have no baths, just showers
- You have to pad in your robe to the butler's pantry for your early morning caffeine fix if staying in the main house
- Some might find this a slightly idealised Scottish hotel
Best time to go
Dornoch is on Scotland's north-east coast and has a sunny micro-climate with less rain and midges than the west of the country during the summer. However, the high season is when you're likely to get stuck in NC500 road-trip traffic. Head here in late spring and early autumn to avoid the crowds. Links House is closed Sundays-Wednesdays in the winter months (November-March), and completely in January. Note that Links House is available for exclusive use over Christmas.
Our top tips
Mooch around Dornoch's medieval cathedral; the first service was held in 1239. Madonna and Guy Ritchie christened their son Rocco here before their wedding at nearby Skibo Castle, once owned by Scottish-born American philanthropist Andrew Carnegie. The stained glass windows on the north side were donated in memory of Carnegie and represent music, peace and literacy.