Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
My childhood holidays were never as good as this. West Cork's magical Liss Ard Estate, once the setting for a bizarre 1970s spy ring, has been given a new incarnation by the team behind Villas Martinhal. This is your own comfy country home, with great friendly service, fabulous local food, and wonderful excursions for children. Sleeping quarters are in the elegant main 1850s Manor House (which also houses the common areas and grand piano), as well as in the adjacent Garden House. Larger family parties, groups of friends or couples seeking privacy can stay in the Lake House, a 10-minute walk away.
But the very best thing about Liss Ard are its amazing 200-acre grounds, which stretch forever – down to the lake, across lawns, through romantic woods, beside ponds and over ancient and modern earthworks (Lios Aird is Gaelic for 'high fort'). American skyscape artist James Turrell created his remarkable Irish Sky Garden Crater in the early 1990s; go through a tunnel into a huge grassed bowl and lie on the central plinth to see the sky framed by the rim; uniquely magical. Play tennis, borrow fishing tackle or kayaks for maximum outdoor fun, or venture forth to beaches and wild headlands. This is the water-craft centre of Ireland too, Olympians train hereabouts. Adventures galore! Afterwards, cosy up on the sofa in front of crackling fires, or laze out on the lawns if it's sunny; there's great craic in the evenings year round.
But the very best thing about Liss Ard are its amazing 200-acre grounds, which stretch forever – down to the lake, across lawns, through romantic woods, beside ponds and over ancient and modern earthworks (Lios Aird is Gaelic for 'high fort'). American skyscape artist James Turrell created his remarkable Irish Sky Garden Crater in the early 1990s; go through a tunnel into a huge grassed bowl and lie on the central plinth to see the sky framed by the rim; uniquely magical. Play tennis, borrow fishing tackle or kayaks for maximum outdoor fun, or venture forth to beaches and wild headlands. This is the water-craft centre of Ireland too, Olympians train hereabouts. Adventures galore! Afterwards, cosy up on the sofa in front of crackling fires, or laze out on the lawns if it's sunny; there's great craic in the evenings year round.
Highs
- Delicious fare of the Irish Slow Food variety in the large dining room
- Flexible accommodation options to suit all, whether families, friends or couples, and a great venue for a wedding or celebration; surprisingly good value
- Fun for families with large grounds to explore and fishing equipment to borrow
- A lovely relaxed country vibe
- Easily located: just 2 minutes outside market town Skibbereen and 5 minutes from the main road to Cork (1.5 hours away); heaps to do in the area
Lows
- No pool or full spa but there is a lakeside wellness centre
- When we last visited the WiFi was patchy
- Note that if you're staying at the Lake Lodge you'll have to walk 10 minutes to the Manor House for meals, or you can catch a golf cart
- Not for those after a slick boutique experience
Best time to go
Ireland isn't renowned for reliable hot sunny weather, instead, prepare to embrace the elements - often you'll get all four seasons in one day, as the saying goes! Summers do see the warmest temperatures, lush greenery and gorgeous long evenings; autumn brings nature's bounty; winters are perfect or the ultimate country house experience of indulging in good food and 'craic' in front of the fire. Whenever you make it here, you'll get the warmest of welcomes and there's heaps to do (or not), whatever the weather.
Our top tips
Skibbereen is the most southerly town in the country, so you're close to some wonderfully wild and rugged headlands: take scenic drives around Beara Peninsula, Sheep's Head, Mizen Head (which has a lighthouse and historical displays accessed across a bridge) and Brow Head, look for choughs on the cliffs.