Mas de Garrigue
near Calvignac, Dordogne & Lot, France
From the fig-laden trees to the rustic pigeonnière, Mas de Garrigue is a restorative and enchanting place to stay. Vast stone fireplaces, hand-hewn beams, a 15th-century window and elegant antiques mix with warm Irish hospitality, a flourishing potager garden (vegetables, herbs, saffron) and a couple of Noir de Gascon pigs (later to be transformed into saucisse, hams and terrines).
This former fortified farm and hunting lodge, in a tiny hamlet in the Lot region of the Midi Pyrenees, is also blessed with a beautiful setting - lawns, terraces, gentle green views, a big tranquil pool - and no shortage of fascinating places to see before returning to full-on luxury: the prehistoric Pech Merle caves, the hilltop village of St Cirq Lapopie, local markets glistening with fresh produce. Owners Sarah and Steve are the soul of the endearing 4-storey house, so handsomely and lovingly restored. As for the 5 guest rooms, 3 are in the main building, 2 in the barn, and all are large, airy and cool. Supremely comfy French cane beds are topped with gorgeous linen to swallow you up each night, floors are of seagrass, stone or glowing wood, and the ensuite bathrooms are impeccable. We cannot wait to visit.
This former fortified farm and hunting lodge, in a tiny hamlet in the Lot region of the Midi Pyrenees, is also blessed with a beautiful setting - lawns, terraces, gentle green views, a big tranquil pool - and no shortage of fascinating places to see before returning to full-on luxury: the prehistoric Pech Merle caves, the hilltop village of St Cirq Lapopie, local markets glistening with fresh produce. Owners Sarah and Steve are the soul of the endearing 4-storey house, so handsomely and lovingly restored. As for the 5 guest rooms, 3 are in the main building, 2 in the barn, and all are large, airy and cool. Supremely comfy French cane beds are topped with gorgeous linen to swallow you up each night, floors are of seagrass, stone or glowing wood, and the ensuite bathrooms are impeccable. We cannot wait to visit.
Highs
- Lovely, spacious bedrooms, all with great rates and plenty of character
- Delicious breakfasts, all using their own produce
- A beautiful pool area with long views
- Very peaceful - and Sarah and Steve limit the number of children at any one time to preserve the tranquility
- Lot is much less touristy than the neighbouring Dordogne but no less charming, with historic towns and great walking
Lows
- A car is essential, and you’ll need to drive or cycle out for lunches and dinners
- Bedrooms don’t have TVs, sound systems or air con - this is a place to escape modern technology
- Bear in mind this is Sarah and Steve's home, rather than a fully fledged hotel. Arrival time is strictly after 3pm, check out by 10.30am requested
- Credit cards aren't accepted (pay by bank transfer or cash), and it's closed November-April
Best time to go
The Lot is lovely at any time of year, but June, July and August can be hot, very hot - though you do have the pool and garden to come home to. Spring and autumn are ideal for hikers, and this is certainly the best time to visit - and eat out in - the village of St Cirq Lapopie (so beautiful that it’s overwhelmed by tourists in summer).
Our top tips
Make sure you try the area’s fantastic cuisine. Tuck into classic cassoulet or duck breast, foie gras and Toulouse sausage, and sample Armagnac (less smooth but more aromatic than its cousin Cognac) at a local distillery.