Masseria Apulia
near Ostuni, Puglia & Basilicata, Italy
Reviewed by
Abigail Blasi
This glorious villa is in the Valle d’Itria region, Puglia at its most fascinating and pastoral: all rolling hills, meadows and ancient olive groves. And among them the trulli: witch-hat shaped buildings that look like something out of a fairytale. Rebuilt by Austro-Italian architects Bricchi Marksteiner, this is a small masseria (farmhouse) that encompasses 2 trulli, as pale as if they’ve been sprinkled by icing sugar. The buildings are a wonderful combination of simple curves and straight lines, permeated by pale, tranquil minimalism. Big French windows allow light and air to flood through the space - even in summer, there’s usually a breeze.
The house is perched on a hillside, with views over valleys to the hilltop towns of Cisternino and Locorotondo; olive, almond, apricot, fig, pear and pomegranate trees, lavender and shrubs dot its 2-acre grounds - which includes a small vineyard of heritage grapes. Below the outdoor dining area is a large lake-style swimming pool, which can lead to a tricky choice: whether to wallow around the edge or jump into the luscious deep centre.
The house is perched on a hillside, with views over valleys to the hilltop towns of Cisternino and Locorotondo; olive, almond, apricot, fig, pear and pomegranate trees, lavender and shrubs dot its 2-acre grounds - which includes a small vineyard of heritage grapes. Below the outdoor dining area is a large lake-style swimming pool, which can lead to a tricky choice: whether to wallow around the edge or jump into the luscious deep centre.
Highs
- Perfect for families or friends, with 4 charming bedrooms plus a sofabed
- Traditional Pugliese architecture spectacularly converted, with contemporary, stylish furnishings inside
- This region still feels truly Italian, and the owner provides a great villa book with tons of local information
- Easy to reach: 45 mins from Brindisi airport, 1.5 hours from Bari
- Well set-up for self-catering, with lovely outdoor eating area and Trani-marble table, welcome hamper on arrival
Lows
- The twin rooms lie off the common areas, so may get some noise
- You're not by the sea: the nearest beach is 20 mins’ drive away
- The pool is closed every year until April
- We have not actually met the new (in 2020) owners Stefania and Leonardo, but they plan to keep the same winning formula as before
Best time to go
Puglia’s finest hour is spring (May-June), when the weather’s perfect, wild flowers run riot and the beaches and towns are relatively uncrowded. September and October are also great, especially as the sea has warmed up over the summer. Puglia is packed and baking in August, rather less so in July, but this is also prime time for the region’s many music and food festivals. January to April can be wet and chilly, plus the hotel pool is closed during this time.
Our top tips
Go wine tasting in Locorotondo and other local towns or take authentic cooking lessons; the owners can arrange.