Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
Near Modica and nearer Pozzallo, Masseria Cianciò (pronounced chancho) is a handy base for exploring the wonders of southeast Sicily. Set amid olive and carob trees, surrounded by dry-stone-walled fields, this 19th-century farmhouse has been welcoming guests since 2000. Former cowsheds and warehouses around the central cobbled courtyard have been transformed into 8 rooms and apartments, most with private gardens.
What sets this agriturismo apart is the retro country-kitchen decor throughout. Owner Gina Ricci, a former interior designer, has scoured the island for vintage and heirloom pieces, to delightful effect. She has juxtaposed chintz and check fabrics with old crockery (she has a thing for china hens), antique furniture and 18th-century tiles (which you can buy in their small shop), and imbued the whole place with a light touch. Accommodations are good value; some have kitchenettes if you prefer to self-cater, and picnic baskets and dinners are available on request.
What sets this agriturismo apart is the retro country-kitchen decor throughout. Owner Gina Ricci, a former interior designer, has scoured the island for vintage and heirloom pieces, to delightful effect. She has juxtaposed chintz and check fabrics with old crockery (she has a thing for china hens), antique furniture and 18th-century tiles (which you can buy in their small shop), and imbued the whole place with a light touch. Accommodations are good value; some have kitchenettes if you prefer to self-cater, and picnic baskets and dinners are available on request.
Highs
- Original vintage country decor, artfully styled
- Generous yet dainty breakfasts served in the stone-and-cobbled breakfast room
- Set in extensive gardens and grounds with a lovely pool plus a playground for children
- Tranquil, rural setting yet close to beaches, Unesco Baroque towns, and only an hour and a half's drive from the airport
- A delightfully authentic agriturismo; you feel very much in the heart of Sicily here
Lows
- No restaurant - but you can order picnic baskets and (with 2 days' notice) dinners
- The nearest outside eateries are 4-8km away
- The retro rustic style is not for everyone: there are few mod cons, kitchenettes are old-fashioned, and it's off the beaten track
- Bathrooms are small in most units
Best time to go
Sicily is best visited in spring and autumn as it can be blazing hot in summer, despite sea breezes. Most places, including Masseria Cianciò, are closed during the winter months.
Our top tips
Take a day trip to Unesco-listed Modica, the nearest of the Baroque cities in the southeast of Sicily, built in a cleft in the limestone plateau and divided into Modica Alta (Upper Modica) and Modica Bassa (Lower Modica). While there, don't forget to sample the famous local Modica Cioccolata (some of which will be on your pillow at Masseria Cianciò on arrival for booking through i-escape).