Reviewed by
Jane Foster
This is a secret slice of Crete, a farmhouse full of history. In a vast walled garden with towering palms, cacti and eucalyptus trees, tucked between the White Mountains and the Venetian harbour town of Chania, lies Metohi Kindelis. You enter through an elegant archway draped with bougainvillea, into a cobbled courtyard, backed by a terracotta farmhouse dating back to the late 16th century. This has been renovated to provide 3 delightful self-catering apartments, each with a private pool and flowering gardens.
The Kindelis family, who have owned it for over a century, still live there today, and are passionate about the land, its fruit, and its future. Manager Danai is a warm and cultured host: on hand when you need her and armed with a wealth of knowledge and recommendations (her English is perfect). Uncle Manolis still spends his days tending their organic orchards, which produce award-winning citrus fruit, avocados, kumquats, strawberries and more. Couples, friends and families adore the sense of space, privacy and freedom here. Expect cats in the courtyard, vases of freshly cut flowers and days spent reading by your private pool, or picnicking in their botanic gardens with your own freshly-squeezed orange juice. Pure bliss.
The Kindelis family, who have owned it for over a century, still live there today, and are passionate about the land, its fruit, and its future. Manager Danai is a warm and cultured host: on hand when you need her and armed with a wealth of knowledge and recommendations (her English is perfect). Uncle Manolis still spends his days tending their organic orchards, which produce award-winning citrus fruit, avocados, kumquats, strawberries and more. Couples, friends and families adore the sense of space, privacy and freedom here. Expect cats in the courtyard, vases of freshly cut flowers and days spent reading by your private pool, or picnicking in their botanic gardens with your own freshly-squeezed orange juice. Pure bliss.
Highs
- This is the best of both worlds: close to central Chania for shops, restaurants and beaches, but far enough away to be peaceful and secluded
- We loved having our fridge stocked with delicious local breakfast ingredients and garden produce
- Perfect for a romantic retreat - our garden, pool and outdoor dining area felt wonderfully private
- Danai is a born concierge, sharing her favourite local beaches, restaurants and under-the-radar sights with us; even advising on our wider Cretan trip
Lows
- The proximity to the main road means you can hear the faint hum of traffic, but, thanks to the lush walled gardens, you can’t see it
- Minimum stay is usually 5 nights, but 3-4 nights can sometimes be accepted
- You're 5km from the nearest beach and town so you'll probably want to hire a car, although taxis to/from Chania are very reasonable
Best time to go
To avoid the crowds, visit in shoulder season (May-June or Sept-Oct) when the days are sunny but not too hot (ideal for hiking) and the sea is still warm enough to swim. During high season (July and August), Chania and the surrounding coastal resorts are overrun with visitors, while in low season (Nov-April) most tourist facilities close down completely.
Our top tips
Having Danai on hand for local advice is one of Metohi Kindelis' trump cards - so make the most of it! For example, if you fancy a truly secluded sandy beach (and don't mind a 1-hour drive and 15-minute walk), ask her about her favourite spots on Crete's wild west coast. Or if you're interested in local wine tastings, or a lesson in traditional bread-making, or a delicious lunchtime picnic packed with farm-fresh goodies, just ask her.