Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
Guido Coffa felt his heart leap when he first saw Monaci delle Terre Nere in 2007, a run-down 62-acre 18th-century estate where monks once coaxed vineyards from the black volcanic earth and views stretch from Mt Etna to the Ionian Sea. He was actually looking to buy a small house to return to Sicily after years away as an automobile engineer but instead found his life's work. A decade on, the land and original Baroque house have been transformed by extensive landscaping, planting and a singular makeover into a classy and intimate hotel, perfect for foodies, romantics and families alike.
Guido, a qualified sommelier, has become an evangelist for organic agriculture, regional produce and sustainable living. Sicilian breakfasts feature home-baked breads and eggs from the resident chickens; dinners are an impressive showcase of fresh, local produce from the estate. Guido has exquisite taste, as evidenced by the bold industrial-chic bar and the lovely suites and villas in the main house and renovated outbuildings. Interiors are decorated with British-Brazilian artist Olivier Mourao, modern Italian furnishings by Flos, Lago, Gervasoni or B&B Italia and Guido's own personal collection of antiques, reclaimed pieces and art. We loved it.
Guido, a qualified sommelier, has become an evangelist for organic agriculture, regional produce and sustainable living. Sicilian breakfasts feature home-baked breads and eggs from the resident chickens; dinners are an impressive showcase of fresh, local produce from the estate. Guido has exquisite taste, as evidenced by the bold industrial-chic bar and the lovely suites and villas in the main house and renovated outbuildings. Interiors are decorated with British-Brazilian artist Olivier Mourao, modern Italian furnishings by Flos, Lago, Gervasoni or B&B Italia and Guido's own personal collection of antiques, reclaimed pieces and art. We loved it.
Highs
- Conveniently located between Catania and Taormina, and close to both Mt Etna National Park and the coast
- Beautifully realised eco-hotel whose wonderful grounds have been rejuvenated with olive trees, vineyards, orchards, vegetable gardens and lawns, plus an 18m infinity pool and chill-out areas
- Delicious food and wine sourced from the Etna region and the estate itself
- 500m above sea level so enjoys terrific views, and is a shade cooler in sweltering summers
- Quietly charismatic and hands-on owner; charming staff
Lows
- Availability can be a problem in high season
- You'll need to hire a car to get here and around. Note there are lots of small, winding lanes in the area, but the journey from Catania is straightforward
- Wines are wonderful but expensive; evening meals can be on the pricier side too, but ingredients are high quality
- Since our last visit the estate has expanded, and we have yet to see the latest additions
- Most rooms are located around 300m from the main building, and Sontuoso (a Pool Villa) is also up a 70m staircase
Best time to go
Sicily is a superb destination year-round, and although it can get very hot in the summer, the hotel is 500m above sea level, so it a little cooler. Although most hotels shut in the winter, Monaci delle Terre Nere stays open.
Our top tips
Our best excursion was ascending Mt Etna. You can hike its otherworldly slopes or ski down it in season, but we took it easy: driving up to Sapienza Refuge where there are tourist facilities (car park, shops selling postcards and lava jewellery, eateries) and took the cable car up to 2500m above the snow line to an Alpine-style hut serving beverages and sandwiches. From here, more adventurous types can hike up to higher craters (2920m) and the less adventurous be shuttled there in a bus; we came back down in the cable car and explored a lower dormant vent instead. Take your camera to capture the colours and shapes of the volcanic rock - plus the views towards Catania and beyond, which are breath-taking.