Mowani Mountain Camp
near Twyfelfontein, Damaraland, Namibia
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Beauty will always be in the eye of the beholder but let me state my case: there are few places to stay in the world that can match the natural setting of Mowani. It seems right that the camp takes its name from the Swahili for 'Window on Heaven'.
This masterfully crafted eco-lodge wraps around a high granite koppie, amidst the vast savannah of Damaraland. Its design was a triumph of bush architecture, creating a near seamless union between the camp and its natural environment. The pod-like buffalo-grass roofs of the main lodge echo the gargantuan granite boulders of the hillside whilst graceful, stilted tents with rust-red fly sheets mirror the colours of the surrounding veld.
All aspects of the lodge are above the commonplace: its food superb, the staff friendly and attentive, and the tented accommodation as spoiling as any we've seen in Africa. It would be worth the journey here just to experience the isolated beauty of Mowani, which brings you close to the pulse of Namibia's ancient landscapes.
This masterfully crafted eco-lodge wraps around a high granite koppie, amidst the vast savannah of Damaraland. Its design was a triumph of bush architecture, creating a near seamless union between the camp and its natural environment. The pod-like buffalo-grass roofs of the main lodge echo the gargantuan granite boulders of the hillside whilst graceful, stilted tents with rust-red fly sheets mirror the colours of the surrounding veld.
All aspects of the lodge are above the commonplace: its food superb, the staff friendly and attentive, and the tented accommodation as spoiling as any we've seen in Africa. It would be worth the journey here just to experience the isolated beauty of Mowani, which brings you close to the pulse of Namibia's ancient landscapes.
Highs
- The beauty of this part of Damaraland borders on the surreal: you can't help but be moved to hyperbole
- The stilted tents have been positioned to guarantee each a maximum of privacy and a large slice of view
- Sundowners served at a viewing point atop a high boulder are never to be forgotten
- The standard of guiding at the camp is first class and your chances of seeing elusive desert elephants as good as anywhere in the country
- Night skies at Mowani, with one of the lowest counts of light pollution on the continent, have to be seen to be believed
Lows
- Be prepared for long game drives if you plan to go in search of the desert elephants
- The only activity included is a guided nature walk; safari drives and the trip to Twyfelfontein are extra
- Being at the camp is as much about landscape as it is about game viewing although you will certainly get to see amazing bird and reptile life close to the camp
Best time to go
When you choose to visit Mowani will probably be influenced by the game viewing season in Etosha and other parts of the country rather than the weather in Damaraland. July to mid November is generally considered the best time of year to be in Namibia because of the increased activity around the water holes. That said, Mowani is an amazing place to be at any time of year due to the ineffable beauty of its situation: this is a place that you visit for landscape as much as for wildlife.
From December through to mid February be prepared for high (mid 30s+) temperatures whilst the rainy season generally lasts from January through to the end of March, though the rains can begin as early as late November. Bear in mind that if you visit at this time of year you're going to need a fairly sturdy 4x4.
Bear in mind, too, that even if daytime temperatures are high throughout most of the year they can rapidly descend at night so pack accordingly.
From December through to mid February be prepared for high (mid 30s+) temperatures whilst the rainy season generally lasts from January through to the end of March, though the rains can begin as early as late November. Bear in mind that if you visit at this time of year you're going to need a fairly sturdy 4x4.
Bear in mind, too, that even if daytime temperatures are high throughout most of the year they can rapidly descend at night so pack accordingly.
Our top tips
Pack a star chart; you'll earn kudos with your fellow guests if you can point out Venus, the Southern Cross and Orion's Belt. If you wear contact lenses, bring glasses in case of dust irritation. Keen birders will want binoculars.