Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Come here for lazy days on a lovely beach, for boat trips up the spectacular coast, for the odd diversion into mysterious hills and for some seriously good food in the restaurant. This is a family affair with 3 sisters at the helm: Stefania and Claudia look after guests, Loretta, a fisherwoman, heads out to sea to catch your supper. It’s a perfect spot for 3 or 4 days. After a delicious breakfast in the garden you amble down to the beach, grab a sunbed, roast away, swim in crystal-clear waters, then retreat to a lovely old café for a spot of lunch. Boat trips into the Golfo di Orosei take in soaring cliffs and deserted beaches and leave from the small harbour every day. This a hassle-free destination and a charming one at that - more 1960s than 21st century.
As for the hotel, it sits 200m back from the village beach with wicker armchairs and sofas scattered about its attractive front garden, an open-air sitting room shaded by tall trees. Inside, 12 whitewashed rooms are just the ticket: not overly fancy but rather lovely nonetheless, with colourfully tiled bathrooms and extremely comfy beds. Some have French windows that open onto tiny balconies, while a couple have big shaded terraces. Finally, the history lesson: the daughter of the king of Navarre survived a shipwreck here in 1052 and built a church in thanks, dedicating it to Santa Maria di Navarra, hence the village’s name. It stands opposite in the shade of an olive tree, which is thought to predate the church.
As for the hotel, it sits 200m back from the village beach with wicker armchairs and sofas scattered about its attractive front garden, an open-air sitting room shaded by tall trees. Inside, 12 whitewashed rooms are just the ticket: not overly fancy but rather lovely nonetheless, with colourfully tiled bathrooms and extremely comfy beds. Some have French windows that open onto tiny balconies, while a couple have big shaded terraces. Finally, the history lesson: the daughter of the king of Navarre survived a shipwreck here in 1052 and built a church in thanks, dedicating it to Santa Maria di Navarra, hence the village’s name. It stands opposite in the shade of an olive tree, which is thought to predate the church.
Highs
- The food is divine, the best we ate on the island by miles and miles and miles
- Everything you want to do is on your doorstep
- The village beach, 200m from the hotel, is a cracker
- Boat trips to the magnificent Golfo di Orosei leave from the village harbour
- Golgo, the mountain behind, is easy to get to and full of strange wonders
Lows
- The Classic Rooms have no balcony and limited views, but they are the quietest rooms
- A little pricey for somewhere without a pool - but it's a very popular spot and the restaurant is excellent
- In April and October the restaurant is sometimes closed (check when booking)
- Over 12s only and no extra beds, so best suited to couples or friends
Best time to go
If you want to walk, come in April, May or October - though bear in mind that some local business only open from May-September. In any case, late July-August is busy, prices are high, there’s probably more noise in the village and excursions will need to be booked in advance. The hotel is usually closed November-March.
Our top tips
The guided tours in the area are well worth considering for several reasons. Some of the trekking is quite tricky and paths over limestone rock are all but impossible to follow, so you’ll want to be with people who know the land inside out. Also, if you’re driving a hire car, it’s impossible to keep off dirt tracks, which you are not insured for. This isn’t to say you shouldn’t drop down the odd track, but taking the track from Golgo to Cala Sisine, a 1-hour crawl down a rutted track, might not be the best idea. And when you do drive on dirt tracks, drive slowly in low gear and read the road ahead.