Neeleshwar Hermitage
Malabar, Northern Kerala, India
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
A blend of health retreat and hotel on the unspoilt and tourist-free northern coast of Kerala, this is as serene and stylish a hideaway as you’ll find anywhere in India; a place to rejuvenate your body and spirit and feel 'still'. The ethos? 'To start the rest of your life anew'. And after a long and dusty taxi ride up from the steamy south, and a spoiling 3 days of Neeleshwar’s gentle embrace, that’s exactly what we felt we were doing.
Just 18 thatched cottages sit amongst 12 acres of lush gardens filled with frangipani and banana trees, coconut groves and glorious hibiscus flowers. The Hermitage was built according to traditional Keralan Vastu principles, just a few metres back from the thumping breakers of the Indian Ocean. From September to March endangered sea turtles hatch their eggs on the beach, rare birds flit overhead; everything feels in harmony with nature and Neeleshwar's eco principles are spot on. Spend your days in the Ayurvedic spa, walking for miles along the palm-fringed beach, doing yoga, learning to meditate or exploring untrammelled backwaters on their gorgeous 2-bedroom houseboat, The Lotus. In the evening watch the sun sink over the horizon and, who knows, you might begin to feel the workings of Neeleshwar, God of Transformation.
Just 18 thatched cottages sit amongst 12 acres of lush gardens filled with frangipani and banana trees, coconut groves and glorious hibiscus flowers. The Hermitage was built according to traditional Keralan Vastu principles, just a few metres back from the thumping breakers of the Indian Ocean. From September to March endangered sea turtles hatch their eggs on the beach, rare birds flit overhead; everything feels in harmony with nature and Neeleshwar's eco principles are spot on. Spend your days in the Ayurvedic spa, walking for miles along the palm-fringed beach, doing yoga, learning to meditate or exploring untrammelled backwaters on their gorgeous 2-bedroom houseboat, The Lotus. In the evening watch the sun sink over the horizon and, who knows, you might begin to feel the workings of Neeleshwar, God of Transformation.
Highs
- The first 'luxury' hotel in northern Kerala, Neeleshwar has opened up miles of unspoilt coastline to the adventurous traveller
- The Lotus, their beautiful 2-bedroom houseboat offers 1- and 2-night cruises on much quieter backwaters than the popular area around Alleppey
- The hotel sits just metres back from a beautiful beach (with swimmable sea), with a huge infinity pool and a chilled out restaurant serving fresh seafood
- There's a unique cultural programme of lectures, concerts and guided tours of local temples
- Charming and friendly staff welcome you with garlands and ice-cold coconut juice
Lows
- It's a mission to get to - an internal flight, then a 2-hour car journey - so not worth going for less than 4 or 5 nights
- This is an isolated spot; the nearest shops and restaurants are 4km away, so bring some books and be prepared for some serious lazing
- The seafood restaurant, though delicious, is expensive - but there's cheaper vegetarian fare available
- A strict cancellation policy during peak season
Best time to go
October to March has the best climate and is the festival season in Kerala. May to October is the low season, during which the sea is often too rough for swimming and it is officially 'monsoon' time. However, it's traditionally considered the best time for Ayurvedic treatments and can be a much cheaper time to visit. The turtles come to lay their eggs between August and March each year.
Our top tips
Stay for a night or 2 on Neeleshwar’s houseboat, The Lotus - it was a highlight of our visit, and we defy you to find a more beautiful craft. On board you’ll find 2 stunning, all teak bedrooms - Sukhima (Happiness) and Lalima (Beauty). You also get a large observation window - with screens for mozzie season - and a private outdoor area. Bathrooms are bigger than you may think: Sukhima’s features a tub and shower whilst Lalima has a wet room. You have the option of air-conditioning up until bedtime when the gennie is switched off and overhead fans keep you cool. All meals are included, and luxurious touches include turndown service and a bedside thermos of chilled water delicately flavoured with Sapen wood.