As your raft enters the rapids, there’s no time to panic: your guide is commanding you to "Paddle forward!" and suddenly there’s an exhilarating rush as the raft is borne up on an unseen wave and sent spinning down into a whirlpool eddy, sending your heart racing, before you emerge effortlessly onto the smooth river again, floating calmly between tall trees and hanging creepers. Exotic birds dart all around you. Then you arrive: secluded in this paradise setting, Pacuare Lodge sits on a bend in the river amid gorgeous gardens filled with tropical flowers. Each of its beautifully designed cabins has luxurious bathrooms, beds draped with mosquito nets, and is lit only by candles at night.
Walk along a winding path to the tall open-sided palenque and sip caipirinhas before dinner - surprisingly sophisticated cuisine is served under the moon, next to the murmur of the river. Awake to birds calling all around you, monkeys swinging in the trees and hummingbirds flitting in the flowers outside your window. Pacuare Lodge will be the highlight of your trip to Costa Rica.
Highs
- This is a unique chance to be isolated in the rainforest, immersed in nature but with fine wines and excellent food
- The palm-thatched wooden cabins are rustic but luxurious, most have 360-degree rainforest views or plunge pools
- The staff are charming - everyone seems to love welcoming you, creating a warm and uplifting atmosphere
- Arriving by raft is unforgettable. Those who don’t fancy it can be brought by jeep and a basket across the river!
- Amazing activities are on offer, such as the hike to visit the Cabecar indigenous community and their curandero (medicine man)
- Pacuare Lodge is carbon neutral
Lows
- It's pricey, but it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and all meals and local transportation are included
- There's no phone, no TV and WiFi reaches the reception area only. That’s the whole point
- No children under 7 are accepted (only over 12s can raft), and rafting might prove too much for older guests. Consider the option of taking a jeep across the river
- There's no electricity in most cabins, so no air-conditioning is available, and there’s the possibility that bugs will get in, though your cabin windows are mosquito screened. Be prepared and you’ll love it
Best time to go
The Lodge is open all year round. It rains more from May to September, and showers can be very heavy in October. Nevertheless, rafting is possible all year round, though the river might be slightly colder (but was perfectly warm in June, when we went). The river moves faster when the water is high, though in the drier season (November to April) rafting is more technically difficult. On a sunny morning, Pacuare is paradise, and it would be a shame to see it only in cloud. However, this is the rainforest, so you have to be prepared for rain!
Our top tips
Pacuare sends a detailed list of what you must bring before you come. Don’t take this too literally. Your luggage will be transported in a separate, large raft in dry bags, so you can bring a few more items than are detailed on the list. Women might want to bring another dress or 2, and men might need an extra pair of trousers: people dress up more than you might think in the evening. Bear in mind, though, that whatever you wear on the rafting trip will get soaking wet. It’s a good idea to wear a t-shirt over your swimwear (or shorts) to prevent sunburn, and to spray yourself with mosquito repellent if you’re sensitive.
Location
Pacuare Lodge is set deep in the rainforest jungle alongside the Pacuare River in eastern Costa Rica.
By Air:
San Jose (150km) is the closest airport.
Travelling on to Pacuare:
It’s pretty much essential that you spend the night before you go, and the night afterwards, in or near San José - unless your flight leaves the next day after 8pm. Everyone is picked up at the rendezvous point by minibus in San José at 6.30am. The bus stops at the restaurant Ranchito Roberto’s at 8am for breakfast, 100km north of San José. The bus then continues to the ‘Put in’, which takes around an hour. You’ll get into the rafts at around 10.30am and rafting the 4 miles to Pacuare takes about an hour and a half, including a stop to wallow in an idyllic shallow pool by a waterfall. Lunch is served on your arrival.
Departure from Pacuare is around 9.30am. You continue rafting downstream for 14 miles, but make two stops, one to climb up to a spectacular waterfall, where you can wallow and swim, and another for an excellent lunch, also in a beautiful spot. You’ll reach dry land again at around 2pm and have time to change into your dry clothes, before getting back on the bus for the 2-hour journey back to San José. You’ll be dropped off around 5pm, though times change, obviously, with weather and different groups.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Costa Rica and getting around
Airports:
- San José Juan Santamaria International 150.0 km SJO
Other:
- Beach 40.0 km
- Shops 15.0 km
- Restaurant 15.0 km