Palmizana
Sveti Klement island, nr Hvar, Dalmatian Coast, Croatia
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
This is art and nature in perfect harmony, an Arcadian idyll on a Dalmatian island. Professor Eugenio Meneghello bought a 300-hectare wilderness in 1906, complete with 2 pebble beaches, and planted it with pines, palms, exotic shrubs and aromatic herbs like rosemary and lavender. One century and 3 generations later, his family are the pioneers of eco-tourism in Croatia. His granddaughter-in-law Dagmar and her 3 children still tend their forefather’s ‘Garden of Eden’, but have turned it into an exclusive hideaway with a cluster of villas and bungalows and 2 restaurants, all built of local stone.
Interiors have been painted deep, vibrant colours and are decorated with unusual driftwood sculptures and contemporary artwork. The result is a discreet yet spiritual escape from the modern world. Popular with flora loving families and hippies at heart, it’s a great place to while away the days eating fresh seafood, swimming in the bay, and hiking to hidden bays and coves.
Interiors have been painted deep, vibrant colours and are decorated with unusual driftwood sculptures and contemporary artwork. The result is a discreet yet spiritual escape from the modern world. Popular with flora loving families and hippies at heart, it’s a great place to while away the days eating fresh seafood, swimming in the bay, and hiking to hidden bays and coves.
Highs
- The two excellent restaurants, Meneghello and Toto's, which are surrounded by fragrant plants, crystal-clear water and almost constant sunshine
- A haven of flora and fauna - the island is car-free, there's limited WiFi, and no in-room TVs or phones
- The carefully designed buildings blend harmoniously with the environment, and most have terraces overlooking the glistening ocean
- Just a 10-minute water taxi from Hvar Town's cultural monuments and hip eateries
- The laid-back and friendly vibe: we were taken, by jeep, to our villa and then ordered to relax and not to worry about checking in
Lows
- Hvar Town, and to a lesser extent this end of Sveti Klement Island, heave with tourists during July & August - it's possible you'll experience some noise
- Logistics: water taxis and only 2 cash machines on the island
- This is a rustic, bohemian retreat - those seeking luxury may be happier elsewhere (e.g. no WiFi in rooms, only in the main restaurant, no pool, and limited commercial activities and infrastructure)
- The abundant wildlife can sometimes include mosquitoes at night and wasps at breakfast
- Kitchenettes are little more than a fridge and kettle - fine for snacks and drinks but not enough for meals
Best time to go
The island can get very crowded in July and August, so we think the best time to visit is May-June or September-October, when you’ll have more of the island to yourself; the temperatures are milder but the sea is still warm enough for swimming.
Our top tips
If you want to explore the nearby coves and bays, there is a dirt path leading through the island's lush vegetation. As you traverse this trail, you'll have the chance to discover hidden spots, take in breathtaking views, and experience the untouched beauty of Palmizana. Shorts and comfortable footwear are recommended, as well as sea shoes to protect against sea urchins on the rocks (a sign that the sea is clean).