Portella
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Reviewed by
Leon Beckenham
When strolling the shaded and storied lanes of Palma’s historic quarter, my mind soon wandered to what might lie hidden behind the imposing entrances of its numerous centuries-old mansions. With its chunky wood and polished brass knockers, Portella is as grand and anonymous as any – just a small stone sign announces its presence. As we stepped over the threshold and the door quietly clunked shut, we found ourselves in an immaculate inner courtyard that instantly imbued a sense of intimate, almost ethereal calm.
Former residence and studio of renowned artist Joaquím Torrents Lladó, this 17th-century manor house has been immaculately renovated free from typical hotel trappings. With no reception and consummate yet unobtrusive service, we felt like welcome guests in a friend’s beautiful home. Designed by a young Parisian duo, the 14 rooms and suites are fresh and airy yet opulent and inviting. Miró lithographs adorn a relaxed dining-lounge area, where guests chill and chat among themselves over late breakfasts and evening aperitifs. A lift floats up five floors to a sunny rooftop terrace, where views of the cathedral on one side and Arab Baths garden on the other are a reminder of this oh-so-privileged Old Town address.
Former residence and studio of renowned artist Joaquím Torrents Lladó, this 17th-century manor house has been immaculately renovated free from typical hotel trappings. With no reception and consummate yet unobtrusive service, we felt like welcome guests in a friend’s beautiful home. Designed by a young Parisian duo, the 14 rooms and suites are fresh and airy yet opulent and inviting. Miró lithographs adorn a relaxed dining-lounge area, where guests chill and chat among themselves over late breakfasts and evening aperitifs. A lift floats up five floors to a sunny rooftop terrace, where views of the cathedral on one side and Arab Baths garden on the other are a reminder of this oh-so-privileged Old Town address.
Highs
- An uber-eye-pleasing blend of 17th-century architecture and soothing interior design, with soundproofed guest rooms boasting deluxe touches
- The central Old Town address is just steps from numerous historic highlights
- An excellent breakfast menu until late, plus lunch and dinner service with local and seasonal produce
- Rooftop terrace with cushioned loungers, a drinks service and spectacular views
- Free access to a subterranean steam room and a small fitness room
Lows
- No swimming pool or spa (though a steam room and in-room massages are available)
- Some of the lower-ground rooms have small windows
- No under 12s, but there are flexible accommodation options if coming with teens
Best time to go
The Mallorcan capital is a great city to visit year-round, though the best time is when temperatures mellow around spring and autumn. Even in the shade of the Old Town, summer months can be sweltering, and popular attractions can get overcrowded. If you don’t mind the possibility of rain, winter weather is much milder than most of Europe, plus the festive season ushers in a busy calendar of events.
Our top tips
Bibliophiles should seek out English Fine Books, located just a block or so from the hotel. This fabulously atmospheric bookstore is brimming with antique tomes and first editions, plus old maps, etchings and other printed curios.