Posada de la Laguna
Esteros del Ibera, Iguazu & Northeast, Argentina
Reviewed by
Christabelle Dilks
One of the least known of Argentina’s natural wonders, the Esteros del Iberá reserve hosts over 350 species of birds in an immense, dreamlike, watery paradise the size of Belgium. It's so unspoilt that wildlife carries on all around you as if you weren’t there. Your boat slips between floating islands dotted with palms on mirror-calm lagoons reflecting the wide open sky; birds swoop and call in all directions. Returning at sunset, the world turns vermillion, and you’re suspended somewhere between lake and sky.
Among a slew of hotels attracting flocks of European twitchers, Posada de la Laguna is unique. Small, elegant and intimate, it was created by owner Elsa Guiraldes to give guests contact with this natural beauty and help preserve it. Built in local Correntino style, it has gardens going down to the lagoon and hammocks on vine-covered verandas that invite you to gaze on wide open views. With just 8 rooms, each guest receives Elsa’s personalised welcome - being here is like staying with charming friends.
Among a slew of hotels attracting flocks of European twitchers, Posada de la Laguna is unique. Small, elegant and intimate, it was created by owner Elsa Guiraldes to give guests contact with this natural beauty and help preserve it. Built in local Correntino style, it has gardens going down to the lagoon and hammocks on vine-covered verandas that invite you to gaze on wide open views. With just 8 rooms, each guest receives Elsa’s personalised welcome - being here is like staying with charming friends.
Highs
- Inspiring host Elsa Guiraldes, a painter and granddaughter of a major Argentine poet, makes you feel instantly at ease
- Wonderful boat trips: the guides have lived here all their lives and know the lagoons intimately. They’ll take you to see specific birds, howler monkeys, marsh deer and alligators
- Utter tranquillity - the most relaxing place we visited in Argentina. And service is excellent, without the fuss and pomp of a big hotel
- The food - all locally grown with daily changing menus
- All meals and activities are included, so it's excellent value for money
Lows
- The posada is beautiful and comfortable, but it's not 5-star luxury hotel standard. However the service is genuine and personalised
- Not for those who want nightlife, urban entertainment and all the mod cons. There’s WiFi, but no TV
- It’s a long way from anywhere - set in the small village of Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, 120km from Mercedes and 800km from Buenos Aires - but that’s the point
Best time to go
The Esteros are interesting all year round. The best time for seeing wildlife is spring and summer (September to April), though temperatures can reach an unbearable 45C in January. October and November are great, and so is March. Avoid the major Argentine holiday period of July and August, and book ahead for Easter.
Our top tips
You’ll want to spend at least 3 nights here to make the journey worthwhile and participate in the boat trips and horse riding. We'd also recommend a couple of mornings just lazing around reading, watching the lagoon and doing very little. It’s a good place to recover from jet lag.