Reviewed by
Liz Simpson
When we stayed at Primero Primera, Barcelona had virtually ground to a halt due to a general strike, but there can be few places as lovely as this to hunker down for 24 hours and wait for the world to resume normality. It's not that this sort of thing happens often here (we timed our visit badly!); more that even though things around us were slightly crazy, we still felt totally relaxed in this lovely hotel. From the moment your taxi drops you in the leafy residential neighbourhood of Tres Torres to the moment you see your beautiful room and let out a contented sigh (you will), this place feels like home - though probably a lot more stylish.
In the entrance hall, vintage trunks and scented candles. Up winding stairs, big silver lanterns and stone Buddhas. There are delightful communal areas - a lounge with battered leather sofas, an honesty bar and a fire; a help-yourself coffee area; a restaurant/café serving simple food. Rooms (there are 30) are very spacious as this used to be an apart-hotel, and spread over 4 floors. The owners live on the first floor; the rest are guest spaces. Imagine crisp white linens on very good beds, deep bathtubs, perhaps a terrace to soak up the tranquility. If you want a peaceful base in a hectic city, you could do no better.
In the entrance hall, vintage trunks and scented candles. Up winding stairs, big silver lanterns and stone Buddhas. There are delightful communal areas - a lounge with battered leather sofas, an honesty bar and a fire; a help-yourself coffee area; a restaurant/café serving simple food. Rooms (there are 30) are very spacious as this used to be an apart-hotel, and spread over 4 floors. The owners live on the first floor; the rest are guest spaces. Imagine crisp white linens on very good beds, deep bathtubs, perhaps a terrace to soak up the tranquility. If you want a peaceful base in a hectic city, you could do no better.
Highs
- Chic rooms with pillow menus, Gilchrist & Soames toiletries, free soft-drink minibars and old-fashioned cups and saucers for tea
- A sense of elegance throughout, yet it's easy and comfortable. Particularly popular with older couples and second-time Barcelona visitors
- Friendly staff who put you on the inside track to the city
- We loved the quirky details, such as antique suitcases, faded black and white photos, and a sketch map of Barcelona on the library wall with moveable pointers of interest
- An excellent breakfast buffet
Lows
- You're out of the city centre and will probably rely on taxis, though they're not expensive and a metro station is close if you prefer
- A quiet atmosphere, so not for party-goers
- The restaurant/café is fairly simple but there are good restaurants a short walk away
- No in-room DVD players and the only English channels are news ones
- Cooked options cost extra at breakfast - not much but we felt they should be included, given the price of staying here
Best time to go
Barcelona is at its buzzing best in spring, early summer and autumn, when the days are sunny and the nights balmy. Locals tend to leave the city in droves in August, the hottest month of the year. Avoid December to February if you don’t like the cold - it can get surprisingly chilly in winter.