Puteus Palace Heritage Hotel
Brac, Dalmatian Coast, Croatia
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
Hidden inside a deep winding bay on the island of Brac, the town of Pucisca (pronounced putch-ish-chah) was founded on the wealth of its stone quarries. They were mined for Bracki mramora, literally "Brac marble", which has been exported from the island since Roman times. In the 15th century, to protect against marauders, Pucisca was fortified with 13 Renaissance towers - of these, seven remain, and one is incorporated into the Puteus Palace, making it the oldest palace on the Adriatic coast. The rest of the building, built in the 17th and 18th centuries, has been carefully renovated to create a magnificent 15-room boutique hotel with calming harbour views.
Behind the palace lies its standout feature: a dreamy 1500 sqm walled garden. Terraced on three levels, it hosts the open-air Puteus Restaurant, with tables set on a wooden deck shaded by a magnificent celtis (hackberry) tree, plus a handful of others on a stone patio draped with roses and wisteria. It's a lovely spot for breakfast or for contemporary Croatian meat and fish dishes later in the day, sometimes accompanied by live music. At the bottom of the garden, there's a large secluded pool for a morning dip, or you could walk to one of the nearby pebbly beaches if you prefer a swim in the sea. The Puteus Palace makes a romantic hideaway for exploring Brac's coastline and sleepy rural villages, and for enjoying the island's hiking, biking and watersports.
Behind the palace lies its standout feature: a dreamy 1500 sqm walled garden. Terraced on three levels, it hosts the open-air Puteus Restaurant, with tables set on a wooden deck shaded by a magnificent celtis (hackberry) tree, plus a handful of others on a stone patio draped with roses and wisteria. It's a lovely spot for breakfast or for contemporary Croatian meat and fish dishes later in the day, sometimes accompanied by live music. At the bottom of the garden, there's a large secluded pool for a morning dip, or you could walk to one of the nearby pebbly beaches if you prefer a swim in the sea. The Puteus Palace makes a romantic hideaway for exploring Brac's coastline and sleepy rural villages, and for enjoying the island's hiking, biking and watersports.
Highs
- A lovely location overlooking Pucisca's fishing harbour, lined with tamarisk trees and white stone benches
- The magnificent walled garden with its restaurant, lawns, lemon trees, lavender, rosemary, pink oleander and swimming pool
- The stylish lounge with lots of natural light, a fireplace, sofas and armchairs - ideal for receptions
- A great little spa offering Jacuzzi and Finnish sauna (free for guests), located in a separate old stone building
- A helpful concierge service for arranging transfers, activities and excursions
Lows
- Only two suites have balconies, though others have windows with lovely harbour views
- Pucisca is rather sleepy with very little nightlife or shopping - not for those after a lively party atmosphere
- Some might find the bedroom decor a little too kitsch
- No kids under 7, a plus for some!
Best time to go
If you're looking for sunny weather, warm sea and a lively choice of restaurants and sports activities, but without the full summer crowds, visit in shoulder season (May-Jun and Sep-Oct). If you like the heat and don't mind busy roads and sea transfers, come in peak season (Jul-Aug).
Our top tips
Croatian sculptor Branislav Deskovic was born in the Puteus Palace building in 1883. Renowned for his bronze figures of animals, especially dogs, you can see some of his works in the lovely Galerija Deskovic (Deskovic Gallery) in Bol on Brac's south coast, which also hosts temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary Croatian painting and sculpture.