Reviewed by
Emma Boyle
This is a truly magical experience. The stunning setting of RAAS Chhatrasagar’s spacious tents - perched, east-facing, on a 100-year-old dam overlooking a lake awash with waterfowl - means you arise to the sight of the sunrise and the sound of birdsong, as the scent from bowls brimming with rose petals fills the air. It’s an idyllic spot to take a breather from the Rajasthan city crush.
These tents are at the very top end of luxury glamping. Expect super-soft beds, air-conditioning, designer tubs with hot running water, as well as a swimming pool overlooking the fields, a peaceful spa, and a wood-clad baradari dining pavilion with sitouts for lazy lakeside lounging. Pretty murals of woodland and birdlife, plus a scattering of field guides and binoculars, lend the camp an updated air of 1920s hunting party - as hosted by the Nimaj family, who have owned the surrounding working farmland for more than a century. They are still present today, working alongside RAAS to organise bird-watching trips, fascinating village tours, and walks through the outlying pastures. The food is organic and delicious, and the hilltop sundowners allow you to revel in a view that’s blessedly big-sky and free from other beings.
These tents are at the very top end of luxury glamping. Expect super-soft beds, air-conditioning, designer tubs with hot running water, as well as a swimming pool overlooking the fields, a peaceful spa, and a wood-clad baradari dining pavilion with sitouts for lazy lakeside lounging. Pretty murals of woodland and birdlife, plus a scattering of field guides and binoculars, lend the camp an updated air of 1920s hunting party - as hosted by the Nimaj family, who have owned the surrounding working farmland for more than a century. They are still present today, working alongside RAAS to organise bird-watching trips, fascinating village tours, and walks through the outlying pastures. The food is organic and delicious, and the hilltop sundowners allow you to revel in a view that’s blessedly big-sky and free from other beings.
Highs
- A truly top-end (and top-dollar) Rajasthani experience in the bush
- The unbeatable location is right on the edge of a lake, with extraordinary peace and quiet - so rare in India!
- Some of the best Rajasthani home cooking we've tasted, plus sophisticated global cuisine - and wonderful post-prandial chat by the fire under an incredible canopy of stars
- Beautiful, palatial tents are kitted out with air-con and heating, fabulous beds, big baths and private sit-outs
- The lake and its surroundings are home to more than 200 species of bird, as well as blue bull antelopes
Lows
- There's no ‘monument’ sightseeing as such, but excursions can be arranged
- The tents are quite close together, but RAAS have done their best to enlarge and soundproof them
- If there's no monsoon, the lake can dry up by late March (and even earlier on the odd occasion)
- It's quite remote, but that's the point!
Best time to go
From October to early April it's warm and dry, with temperatures beginning to rise from March onwards. Nights can be chilly, but hot water bottles are provided. Towards the end of March you may find the lake is beginning to dry up, meaning less birdlife to see (though the water level can start to drop even earlier if the rains have been poor).
Our top tips
Make sure you stay at least two nights to fully unwind and enjoy the various guided tours on offer: the hosts are extremely knowledgeable and you'll get a fascinating insight into rural traditions, farming, local wildlife and the environment.
One of our highlights was sipping ice-cold sundowners on top of the hill as, under an endless orange sky, the sun melted into the vast plains spreading out beneath.
One of our highlights was sipping ice-cold sundowners on top of the hill as, under an endless orange sky, the sun melted into the vast plains spreading out beneath.