Ramathra Fort
Sapotra, Ranthambore National Park, India
Reviewed by
Kate Darnton
It's safe to say that the craftsmen who built this Rajput battle fort were not thinking about luxury tents and sundowner cocktails; their minds were on elephant attacks, tribal skirmishes and marauding warriors. But 350 years later, the beautifully renovated stronghold is a real gem, and far from repelling invading forces, it welcomes visitors warmly.
Staying here is impossibly romantic. There are 6 luxury tents spread around a central lawn, and 6 suites in the fort building with views of the river valley and misty, undulating mountains beyond. The Raj Pals have cleverly renovated just enough to create a haven of fading grandeur and tumbling bougainvillea-covered walls with indulgent touches like outdoor bathrooms, storm lanterns and hand-woven dhurries. It's well-placed for a honeymoon tour of Rajasthani palaces and tented camps (this is a bit of both), and you could spend a few days in Jaipur and Ranthambhore then come here on the way to Agra. It's also a destination in itself thanks to its remote location, boat trips, jeep tours and utter tranquility.
Staying here is impossibly romantic. There are 6 luxury tents spread around a central lawn, and 6 suites in the fort building with views of the river valley and misty, undulating mountains beyond. The Raj Pals have cleverly renovated just enough to create a haven of fading grandeur and tumbling bougainvillea-covered walls with indulgent touches like outdoor bathrooms, storm lanterns and hand-woven dhurries. It's well-placed for a honeymoon tour of Rajasthani palaces and tented camps (this is a bit of both), and you could spend a few days in Jaipur and Ranthambhore then come here on the way to Agra. It's also a destination in itself thanks to its remote location, boat trips, jeep tours and utter tranquility.
Highs
- A peaceful, rural setting - a world away from the chaos of urban India - with fresh breezes and clear night skies (there's a
high-power reflector telescope for stargazing) - Awesome views from the outdoor bathtubs of the Luxury Suites (magical when candlelit), and romantic tents that are a perfect marriage of outdoor space and stylish living
- Activities that reveal a hidden side of Rajasthan: guided tours to villages, cave temples and gorges, plus sunset boat rides on Lake Kalisil, a haven for migratory birds
- Delicious, locally farmed food, cooked in the traditional style from family recipes and included in the room rate
- Welcoming owners: affable Ravi, a wildlife enthusiast who's extremely knowledgeable about the history and geography of the region, and gracious Gitanjali
Lows
- Getting here is an adventure and the last 100km of road are rough. There are no airport transfers so you'll need to come by car or train - the owners can collect you from the station for a fee
- No TV reception and limited mobile phone signal (all in keeping with the tranquil rural setting)
- If you're staying in a tent, expect noise to carry
- No pool for cooling off in the hotter months (but there is a jacuzzi with a fabulous view), and the communal areas aren't air-conditioned
- No restaurants or shopping nearby
Best time to go
The weather in Rajasthan is highly seasonal. December-February can be cold in the evenings, though lovely by day. June to September is the rainy season, though this area of India can be very beautiful during the monsoon. The hotel is closed from April to June, and the tented accommodation is closed from July to September.