Relais Blu
Massa Lubrense, Naples & Amalfi, Italy
Reviewed by
Liz Simpson
Set in lush cliff-top gardens of mature olive, agave and scented pine, this cool white hotel combines sugar-cube modernism and dazzling Mediterranean colour with panoramic sea views and a near-perfect location. Secluded without being isolated, it sits at the very tip of the Sorrentine peninsula, a short drive from Sorrento itself, looking out over the blue Bay of Naples and the craggy isle of Capri. Naples, Amalfi and Pompeii are all within day-tripping distance.
But why go anywhere? Popular with honeymooners, loved-up couples and escapists, this place is built for indulgence and you won’t want to leave in a hurry - we certainly didn't. The 19 white-blue rooms are fresh and contemporary, opening onto private terraces where you can enjoy the views from café-style tables or white cubist sofas, shaded by pale aqua umbrellas. There’s a small but beautifully positioned pool on a terrace above the hotel and two gourmet restaurants serving fabulous food. One even has a Michelin star. In the evenings, live pianist music fills the air. In other words, all the ingredients for an unforgettable stay.
But why go anywhere? Popular with honeymooners, loved-up couples and escapists, this place is built for indulgence and you won’t want to leave in a hurry - we certainly didn't. The 19 white-blue rooms are fresh and contemporary, opening onto private terraces where you can enjoy the views from café-style tables or white cubist sofas, shaded by pale aqua umbrellas. There’s a small but beautifully positioned pool on a terrace above the hotel and two gourmet restaurants serving fabulous food. One even has a Michelin star. In the evenings, live pianist music fills the air. In other words, all the ingredients for an unforgettable stay.
Highs
- The views are awesome, and the entire hotel is designed to make the most of them. The main terrace has a jaw-dropping panoramic; we spent hours just staring
- Refreshingly sleek and stylish decor for this part of the world
- Delicious, fresh food. We spent 10 days in Italy and the food here was the best we ate
- Owner-managers Antonino and his sister Bianca are very hands-on, and the rest of the staff incredibly helpful and friendly
- A network of lanes and coastal footpaths winds through olive groves to crowd-free coves and crags
Lows
- With the nearest shop 3km away and little public transport, you'll need a car - but the roads can get extremely congested during the summer
- Being so popular with couples, it could feel a bit cheesy for single travellers and groups of friends
Best time to go
The shoulder summer months (April, May, late September, October) are probably the nicest time to visit the Amalfi coast. We went in early May and it was perfect: sunny enough to lie out, but not so hot that we couldn’t bring ourselves to go for walks. The other advantage of going at this time is that it’s far less crowded. In peak season the coastal road is heaving, and often has long tailbacks, and the beaches, restaurants and tourist attractions are full to the brim. In May we managed to find a small cove that we had all to ourselves for a day.
Our top tips
We stayed for two nights, and wished we were staying for a week. It's a beautiful hotel and the staff and owners couldn't be more lovely.