Relais Casamassima
near Perugia, Umbria & Le Marche, Italy

Reviewed by
Ben Reed
Tinkling bells, chirping cicadas and a swathe of hillside covered in olives and vines - happiness on the outskirts of Perugia. From the bottle of wine on arrival to the organic toiletries from Spello, all is simple, beautiful, and run with great kindness by owner Anna. As well as welcoming overnight guests, Casamassima is a working farm with a little on-site shop selling its very own extra virgin olive oil and wines. Breakfast is a spread of fresh cakes, homemade jams and eggs from the hens, then lunch and dinner feature lovingly home-cooked delights from the garden: stuffed peppers, spinach souffle, fluffy gnocchi. I'm still dreaming about it.
Wide brick arches span the renovated stable, rugs lie scattered on sloping brick floors, and there are drinks you can help yourself to, plus cards, chess, music - Anna has thought of everything. The suites, a meticulous mix of antique and contemporary, will enchant you with their pretty stone balconies and romantic bedrooms. Working fireplaces ensure winter is cosy, and summer brings idyllic swimming amongst the lavender trees and finding secret reading spots in the gardens that cascade down the hillside. With Assisi, Perugia, Montone and Gubbio nearby, plus an ancient tower with nesting doves and rambling pastures with sheep and chickens, this is a perfect slice of rural Umbria.
Wide brick arches span the renovated stable, rugs lie scattered on sloping brick floors, and there are drinks you can help yourself to, plus cards, chess, music - Anna has thought of everything. The suites, a meticulous mix of antique and contemporary, will enchant you with their pretty stone balconies and romantic bedrooms. Working fireplaces ensure winter is cosy, and summer brings idyllic swimming amongst the lavender trees and finding secret reading spots in the gardens that cascade down the hillside. With Assisi, Perugia, Montone and Gubbio nearby, plus an ancient tower with nesting doves and rambling pastures with sheep and chickens, this is a perfect slice of rural Umbria.
Highs
- A tranquil retreat in the rolling hills of Umbria - Italy’s ‘Green Heart’ - yet just a 10-minute drive from bustling Perugia
- Anna is a warm and dedicated hostess with meticulous attention to detail and a wealth of knowledge about the local area
- Deliciously luxurious and seductive suites, all with private living rooms and romantic fireplaces
- We were blown away by the beautiful food, mostly produced within the grounds - fruits, vegetables, eggs, wine and olive oil; truly some of the best of our trip
- If you can find a group of friends to share it with, it would make a blissful holiday house for weekly rentals (sleeps up to 12)
Lows
- Although Perugia is only 4km away, you'll really need a car to make the most of the region
- Lunch and dinner are only available on request, and the owners can't always oblige, but it's well worth an ask
- With so few rooms you may be obliged to be sociable - a plus for some people
- The pool is small and unheated, but it's a blissful spot to while away an afternoon
Best time to go
The elevated position - and the bedrooms’ air-conditioning - makes this a good choice for high season. But avoid July and August in Umbria if you don’t like the heat or crowds: the hilltop towns are at their best off season. In spring and autumn the restaurants are frequented mainly by locals, and in May-June the countryside is garlanded with flowers. Winter at Casamassima is really cosy - the suites have working log fires and some have deep tubs for long soaks. October is the month for mushrooms, truffles and wild-boar hunting, and Christmas is a surprise in Città di Castello.
Come in July for the Umbria Jazz Festival. It's held at a 4,500-seat outdoor arena in Perugia with views of the Santa Giuliana church - amazing. Alternatively, November brings EuroChocolate in Perugia, one of the world’s biggest chocolate jamborees: 9 days’ worth of displays, tastings and sculptings across the city’s squares. Scoff yourself silly.
Come in July for the Umbria Jazz Festival. It's held at a 4,500-seat outdoor arena in Perugia with views of the Santa Giuliana church - amazing. Alternatively, November brings EuroChocolate in Perugia, one of the world’s biggest chocolate jamborees: 9 days’ worth of displays, tastings and sculptings across the city’s squares. Scoff yourself silly.
Our top tips
Give yourself at least a day to relax in the garden, breathe the pure air, listen to the bells (they keep sheep) and idle by the pool. Find a romantic wrought-iron table under the gazebo or by the clambering wisteria. Pluck a juicy fig from the trees.