Rhotia Valley Tented Lodge
Near Ngorongoro, Northern Circuit, Tanzania
Reviewed by
Liz Simpson
As we bump off-road and wind our way up a steep dirt track, past traditional cottages, farmers' fields, sleeping dogs and clusters of waving children, we see Rhotia Lodge at the very top of the hill. Perched proud, with stunning panoramic views of the valley below, its rural location is amazing - and all the more so for being a mere 30-minute drive from the Ngorongoro Crater. Most hotels near the Crater charge an arm and a leg for the privilege of staying there. Not so at Rhotia, which is both a lodge and a community project all in one, its mission to provide a home for local children who have none.
Built from indigenous hardwood, in traditional African style, the main building is wrapped by an open veranda, with stools and easy chairs to soak up the glorious view over a sundowner beer. Staff are instantly wonderful, rushing out to welcome you with big smiles, cold towels and freshly squeezed juice; it feels good to be here. Out back are 15 Tented Houses: simple but attractive, with bright linens and private verandas. They are not luxurious, but life’s little pleasures are all in place: hot showers, comfy beds, even hot-water bottles at night. And after you rise to a delicious organic breakfast and piping hot coffee before an early-morning game drive in the Crater, you'll leave with a smile on your face - even at 5.30am.
Built from indigenous hardwood, in traditional African style, the main building is wrapped by an open veranda, with stools and easy chairs to soak up the glorious view over a sundowner beer. Staff are instantly wonderful, rushing out to welcome you with big smiles, cold towels and freshly squeezed juice; it feels good to be here. Out back are 15 Tented Houses: simple but attractive, with bright linens and private verandas. They are not luxurious, but life’s little pleasures are all in place: hot showers, comfy beds, even hot-water bottles at night. And after you rise to a delicious organic breakfast and piping hot coffee before an early-morning game drive in the Crater, you'll leave with a smile on your face - even at 5.30am.
Highs
- A great budget option - including this lodge in your itinerary will lower the cost of your overall safari holiday
- Ngorongoro has the highest density of animals in Africa (the Serengeti migration passes through here May-October); we saw masses of lions, hippos and zebra, and, thrillingly, a rhino
- Good, imaginative food, most of it from Rhotia’s organic vegetable garden or supplied by local farmers
- The cosy lounge with its wicker sofas and open fireplace, which you’ll appreciate in the evenings as you’re 1700m above sea level
- By staying here you directly contribute to The Rhotia Valley Children’s Home, which sits on an adjacent hilltop. It’s heart-warming to see the kids out playing, and you can visit if you want
Lows
- It can cool down at night but you're at 1700 metres altitude so the air is fresh in the evenings.
- Slightly simpler than some other safari lodges: this is not high end luxury - but you’ll be very comfortable, and it's great to know that the lodge's profits help such a fantastic cause
Best time to go
June to September is dry season, and the weather is less hot and less humid, but still warm. It's a good time for game viewing as animals start to congregate around shrinking water sources. Temperatures become increasingly hot through October, with heavy concentrations of game around lakes and rivers; we visited during this month and it was superb. Rainy season is November to May, during which things get increasingly wet and sticky, with April and May having the heaviest rainfall. This is the 'green season' with lush vegetation, full rivers and lakes, and abundant birdlife and wild flowers.
Our top tips
Be sure to pack binoculars - we wouldn't have seen a rhino in the Crater without ours. Suncream and sunhats are an absolute must too, as if you're standing in the Jeep hatch all day (which you will be), you'll burn to a crisp if it's sunny.