If you get the feeling that you’re wandering through a movie set whilst at Samode Palace, that’s probably because you are. This 150-year-old Rajasthani abode has been the backdrop to numerous Bollywood movies, as well as Raj-romance classic, ‘The Far Pavillions’. The building stands in serene, sprawling splendour on a hilltop at the end of a dusty road, an hour's drive from Jaipur. A magnificent example of Rajput-Mughal architecture, it boasts some of the finest frescoes and mirror-work in Rajasthan. We came for rest and recuperation and found ourselves on our own Royal Progress through endless wings, terraces, courtyards and levels, marvelling at lavish creations like the extravagantly painted Durbar Hall and breathtaking Sheesh Mahal. Twisting staircases and painted corridors open up to spacious rooms and suites, which have a timeless, elegant charm.
After a day's sightseeing, you can explore the tranquil garden, unwind with an Ayurvedic massage in the spa, or sink a sundowner by one of the 2 pools. At dusk, the twinkling palace lights illuminate the darkness and inject plenty of romantic appeal to alfresco dinners in the flower-scented courtyards or feasts in the fine-dining restaurant. Wander through the manicured ground or peruse an impressive classic car collection: if you've ever wanted to play out childhood fantasies of living like a king or queen, Samode Palace is the place to do it.
Highs
- The palace has been meticulously restored to accentuate the wonderful architecture and grand scale, with amazing mosaics and frescoes
- Camel safaris in the bush at sunset are an unforgettable experience
- This is an ideal place to rejuvenate and relax, with Ayurvedic treatments, Balinese massages, a sauna and a steam room
- The wine list is superb, and the terrace by the rooftop infinity pool is a magical place to savour a drink
- Honeymooners will adore the sumptuous Royal Suites, with their private balconies, dining rooms, and outdoor Jacuzzis
Lows
- Visiting groups and gala dinners can make it feel impersonal at times, though non-guests can't use the rooftop pool or the fine-dining restaurant
- There’s nowhere else to visit in the area, and some of the extras seem expensive
- Some of the Deluxe Rooms can be dark - opt for a suite
- Some consider it to be more commercialised than other heritage hotels, and we've heard reports of staff encouraging guests to buy their families' wares
Best time to go
October is one of the best times to visit Jaipur (and especially Samode Palace) as its rural location is almost unrecognisable under a carpet of lush greenery post monsoon. The weather remains good right up until early April. December and January are cool in the evenings so bring some winter warmers, but sitting around a roaring fire with an evening drink only adds to the fun. It also means that mornings are fresh and utterly beautiful. In May, things really start to heat up, and June, pre-monsoon, they start to get quite humid, so these months are best avoided. July through to September witnesses the monsoon, and Jaipur is at it’s quietest; if you don’t mind the rain it can be a spellbinding (and inexpensive) time to visit.
Our top tips
From December to February bring some warm clothes for the mornings and evenings. Light clothing for covering up against mosquitoes in the summer months is advisable. Dress appropriately - skimpy outfits are out of place in Rajasthan - and bring some walking shoes for exploring the local village. Many like to dress for dinner here to maximise the experience.