Reviewed by
Kate Parsons
We stepped through the jaw-dropping doors of Santiago as its first-ever guests and instantly knew this would be a front-runner amongst Lisbon's boutique hotels. Years later, they continue to prove us right. Owners Heleen and Manny bought this 15th-century palace (then a run-down bra factory) in 2010, immediately seeing its full potential. Their visionary transformation has kept the building true to its past, yet it has been pulled into the 21st century and turned into a stylish and restful space.
There are just 19 bedrooms, along with an atmospheric café-restaurant-bar and a Beauty Bar (Martini with your manicure? Why not!). Mod cons are well considered and subtle (sound-proofing, speakers in the bathrooms), and Roman ruins unearthed during the build have been exposed and celebrated. Better still, you get all the things that are missing in many boutique hotels - lots of space, wardrobes, great bathrooms and indulgent Bvlgari products. Heleen’s eye for detail has created nothing short of a masterpiece. The doors open onto a quiet cobbled street, yet the old town's bustling hotspots, Insta-worthy viewpoints and a stop for the famous Tram 28 are a stroll away. We felt thoroughly spoilt (and, dare we say, a little smug to have discovered Alfama’s hottest hidden gem?).
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There are just 19 bedrooms, along with an atmospheric café-restaurant-bar and a Beauty Bar (Martini with your manicure? Why not!). Mod cons are well considered and subtle (sound-proofing, speakers in the bathrooms), and Roman ruins unearthed during the build have been exposed and celebrated. Better still, you get all the things that are missing in many boutique hotels - lots of space, wardrobes, great bathrooms and indulgent Bvlgari products. Heleen’s eye for detail has created nothing short of a masterpiece. The doors open onto a quiet cobbled street, yet the old town's bustling hotspots, Insta-worthy viewpoints and a stop for the famous Tram 28 are a stroll away. We felt thoroughly spoilt (and, dare we say, a little smug to have discovered Alfama’s hottest hidden gem?).
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Highs
- All rooms, even the cheapest, are generous sizes for a city hotel, and bathrooms too
- Beautiful, understated style - high quality abounds but things remain simple
- Equally suited to couples, friends and families; not an easy balance to achieve
- Set on a quiet street in Lisbon's oldest district, a short walk from Castelo de São Jorge and viewpoints across the Tagus river
- Trams (including the famous yellow Tram 28) rattle past a few hundred metres away so it's easy to hop on and explore the city
Lows
- Occasionally service in the restaurant can be stretched, but it's worth the wait
- Be aware this area of the city has steep and cobbled streets, so might not be great for those with mobility problems
- Prices are fairly high compared to other Lisbon hotels, but we think it's worth it
Best time to go
Lisbon is a fabulous city break at any time of year, though temperatures can tip 40C in July and August. Room prices are lowest in November, December and January, and the city rarely gets very cold.
Our top tips
Beat the crowds and bag a seat on Tram 28 (the classic yellow 1930s trams) by hopping on before 9am at the stop around the corner from the hotel. It’s a joy to ride it (west) to the end of the line and back again (you’ll need cash).