There's nothing quite like this albergo diffuso - meaning something like "scattered lodgings" - anywhere else in the world. Put together by a team passionate about conservation, the hotel is a collection of restored houses and suites dotted around a crumbling hilltop village in the Gran Sasso mountains of central Italy. Thanks to their efforts, the village has been saved from extinction, and its remit now is to pay reverence to its peasant past. This is not a typical hotel: it’s a step back in time, and like its sister project Grotte della Civita, it’s quite unique.
With your ancient iron key in hand, you enter a room that seems largely unchanged over the centuries, with rough stone walls, uneven floors, blackened fireplaces and heavy wooden furniture. But don’t be fooled. Extensive studies were conducted with cultural institutions to bring the best of the past alive, and to join them with the best of today’s modern luxuries; so underfloor heating, hidden electrics and swish bathrooms are there too.
Sit in the vaulted candlelit restaurant and dine on the kind of food that Santo Stefano's farmers might have eaten centuries ago; explore hilltop villages and castles, or walk in the majestic Gran Sasso mountains.
Highs
- An utterly unique take on a holiday in Italy - this is an authentic cultural experience that gives you a peek into Abruzzo's past while also allowing you to live like a local
- Meticulous detail has been applied to the project, from the rugged iron keys to the traditional menus - and it shows
- In the summer, the dark cave-like rooms are a refuge from the hot sun (it’s cooler up here in the hills); in the winter, they are deliciously cosy - scented with wood smoke and lit by flickering candles
- The landscape is breathtaking - rocky crags, crumbling castles, wild forests and lakes
- This area is largely undiscovered by tourists so you can have its lovely hilltop vistas all to yourself
Lows
- The preoccupation with historical detail means that rooms are sparely furnished with no comfy sofas, minibars or TVs
- There are no turndowns, room service or fitness rooms - if you're looking for a full-service hotel, this isn't for you
- At busy times it can be very expensive - but when you get there you will see the time, love and infrastructure that has been invested
- Though atmospheric, the rooms tend to be dark - we struggled to identify the contents of our luggage in the dim medieval lighting
- The lack of an in-room phone can be a drawback, and the ancient iron keys can be heavy and tricky to use
Best time to go
Abruzzo is a year-round destination, but we'd recommend visiting in the spring (particularly early-mid May when the wild cherry is blossoming) or early summer (late May-June) when the alpine and subalpine flowers are in bloom. But midsummer and autumn are also lovely. It is several degrees cooler than Rome up here, and can be very snowy in winter - though central heating and (in some rooms) working fireplaces keep the houses cosy.
Our top tips
Don’t be put off by the scaffolding and the buttresses which shore up some of the crumbling walls in this ancient village. This is a work in progress and none of these things impact on the pleasure of staying here.
Location
Sextantio Albergo Diffuso is in the village of Santo Stefano, in the Abruzzo region of central Italy. It's approximately 2 hours' drive east of Rome and an hour's drive west of Pescara, on the Adriatic coast.
By Air
The closest airport is Abruzzo Pescara (95km), which is around an hour's drive away to the east and well connected within Europe. Rome Fiumicino (150km) or Rome Ciampino (150km) are the alternatives. They have better flight connections but are about 2 hours' drive away.
From the Airport
Airport transfers from either airport are available through the hotel, costing a little less than the normal taxi fare (see Rates).
By Car
From Pescara, the journey takes about 1 hour, from Rome about 2 hours, and from Naples about 3 hours. It's a fairly easy drive; the roads in this part of Italy are good and it's a toll road as far as L'Aquila, then a good country road to the hotel (30 minutes). It's a good idea to hire a car for exploring the wild Abruzzo region - see our car rental recommendations.
By Bus
You can get to Santo Stefano by bus from Rome. Take the Roma Stazione Tiburtina- L'Aquila Stazione Colemaggio and change there for a bus to Santo Stefano. Be prepared for a 4-5 hour journey in total.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Italy and getting around
Airports:
- Abruzzo Pescara 95.0 km PSR
- Rome Fiumicino 150.0 km FCO
Other:
- Beach 80.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km