Reviewed by
Meg Lambert
Owned by Shahpura’s ruling family, this heritage hotel’s surrounds would have looked very different had the late Rajadhiraj Nahar Singh not mortgaged the family jewels to bring water to the local community. Today, it is a glorious green oasis amidst this desert state, and a bastion of traditional Rajasthani culture. A direct descendant of Singh, the current Raja, Jai, now lives here with his family, and invites guests to share his palace. His personal care and involvement gives this boutique property the feel of a homestay – albeit a rather royal one.
Accessible by road from Jaipir, Udaipur, Ranthambore and Jodhpur, a few nights here is a great way to change the tempo of your visit between chaotic cities. Intimate, opulent, there is a strong ethos of altruism, which clearly runs in the family. Staff are almost all from local villages, and many have been working for the household for generations. With lots to do in and around the property, Shahpura Bagh is great for families, solo travellers and friends, especially birdwatchers and nature lovers.
Accessible by road from Jaipir, Udaipur, Ranthambore and Jodhpur, a few nights here is a great way to change the tempo of your visit between chaotic cities. Intimate, opulent, there is a strong ethos of altruism, which clearly runs in the family. Staff are almost all from local villages, and many have been working for the household for generations. With lots to do in and around the property, Shahpura Bagh is great for families, solo travellers and friends, especially birdwatchers and nature lovers.
Highs
- More Ibizan villa than rural Rajasthan, a heated azure pool is surrounded by daybeds with billowing white curtains
- Just 11 beautiful rooms, including huge Royal Suites and Luxury Villa Suites with very un-Rajasthani open-air showers!
- Evenings by the bonfire, G&T in hand, accompanied by canapés and anecdotes
- Food is home-grown and home-cooked but by no means simple
- Wonderful guided activities, to help you get under the skin of this fascinating region: village, local farm and school visits, and sundowner drinks at Fort Dhikola
Lows
- A 4-hour drive from the nearest airports (Jaipur and Udaipur), but it's the price worth paying for this rural idyll
- Dinner is a set menu and the lunch menu is a little limited, which is a shame as there is nowhere else to eat in the area
- A sprawling property with a small team of staff, sometimes they can be a little hard to find
- Full pre-payment 60 days prior to arrival, and this is non-refundable in the event of cancellation
Best time to go
March and October are best, warm during the day, and still pleasant in the evenings. April, May and early June can be very hot, leading up to the monsoon season. Mid-June and July witness the monsoon, which may hamper day trips, but is a spectacular sight in itself and prices are lower. The coolest months are between November and February. In fact, you'll be surprised just how chilly it can get on a winter's eve, so do remember to bring scarves and a jacket.
Our top tips
- Go for sundowner drinks at Dhikhola Fort. The sight of the sun setting behind verdant rice paddies and shimmering water bodies, through the crumbling arches of this ancestral fort, is a photographer's dream. You can also organise a private dinner at the fort with candles and fireworks - the whole shebang.
- A great read, if this is your first trip to India, 'Nine Lives' by William Dalrymple provides a whistlestop tour and insight into some of the country's oldest customs.