Stanley's Kopje
Mikumi National Park, Southern Circuit, Tanzania
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Abutting the northern edge of the vast Nyerere National Park (previously known as Selous Game Reserve), Mikumi gets less press than its illustrious neighbour. Yet this 3,200 square mile tract of savannah and miombo woodland offers prime game viewing and has a mind-boggling number of bird species. The reserve is easily accessible from Dar es Salaam and makes a natural stopover between Foxes’ Ruaha River Lodge and their Indian Ocean hideaway, Lazy Lagoon.
Our Mikumi safari got off to an unforgettable start with giraffes scattering away from the bush landing strip as our light aircraft touched down. By the time we reached the delectable camp, wrapped round an isolated kopje with 360º views of the Mkata floodplain, we’d seen lion, zebra, hippo, huge numbers of buck including the elusive eland, and feathered things galore. The makuti-thatched hilltop lodge seemed lifted straight from the pages of Karen Blixen and throughout our stay we couldn’t fault the Foxes’ attention to detail nor the excellence of our safari guides.
Our Mikumi safari got off to an unforgettable start with giraffes scattering away from the bush landing strip as our light aircraft touched down. By the time we reached the delectable camp, wrapped round an isolated kopje with 360º views of the Mkata floodplain, we’d seen lion, zebra, hippo, huge numbers of buck including the elusive eland, and feathered things galore. The makuti-thatched hilltop lodge seemed lifted straight from the pages of Karen Blixen and throughout our stay we couldn’t fault the Foxes’ attention to detail nor the excellence of our safari guides.
Highs
- The setting is bush-at-its-best with uninterrupted vistas out across the floodplains
- The tented accommodation strikes a perfect balance between simple authenticity and solid creature comfort
- The Foxes have been fine-tuning their safaris for decades: nobody does it better in southern Tanzania; families are welcome
- Staff go the extra mile to ensure all guests get the most out of their Mikumi safari. We enjoyed their infectious vitality and enthusiasm
- Mikumi is home to a staggering 400 species of birds, and the open miombo forest and grassland make for easy ornithological observation
Lows
- The busy Tanzam highway cuts straight across the park. But rangers plan game drives in such a way that you’ll be unaware of the road
- Expect to see a fair number of game vehicles; easy accessibility from Dar makes Mikumi a really popular game-viewing destination
Best time to go
Any time between July and November is a great time to visit Mikumi as you’re guaranteed masses of wildlife action around the camp’s Mwanambogo watering hole. November is a beautiful month, too: after the short rains the grasses push up, the Miombo woodlands come into leaf, and huge herds of animals graze the plains. The camp closes during the Long Rains, which generally fall between March and early May, as many roads in the northern part of the Reserve become impassable.
Our top tips
Useful things to take: a head torch, binoculars, mosquito spray, your swimming costume, a bird field guide, antihistamines if you’re allergic to grasses and pollens, walking boots, a foldaway day pack and a money belt.