Famed for its glorious sunsets, Rovinj on Istria's west coast is one of Croatia's loveliest seaside destinations. Its romantic old town, a huddle of pastel-coloured Venetian-era buildings, overlooked by a hilltop church, was a tiny island until 1763, when the narrow channel separating it from the mainland was filled in. Its sheltered fishing harbour is rimmed by seafood eateries, while steep cobbled alleys leading up to the church reveal galleries and boutiques. South along the coast, beyond the marina lies the Punta Corrente park-forest, planted with pines, cypresses and Himalayan cedars, and across the bay rise the tiny pine-scented islets of Sv Katarina and Sv Andrija.
Overlooking the harbour, on the second floor of an Austro-Hungarian townhouse, the Artist's Suite is a celebration of light and beauty. With meditative sea-views, the gallery-like interior of this open-plan suite is refined yet daring. White predominates the space, with colour coming from details like a glass vase in deep Prussian blue, while antique wooden Baroque figurines contrast with a modern white linen sofa and chrome-and-leather barrel chairs. The big bold canvases and ceramic plates with playful Matisse-like line drawings, the smaller paintings in ornate Montparnasse frames, and huge vases of extravagant fresh flowers are all the work of co-owner, Croatian florist and artist, Saša Šekoranje. Perfect for couples with impeccable taste, it's a real find.
Highs
- Rovinj is one of Croatia's loveliest and most historic coastal towns - and it's all on your doorstep
- Great views from all four windows over the old harbour and across to Sveta Katarina island
- You couldn't be more central: all the main attractions, from bars to boat trips, lie just a few minutes' walk away
- Yet also surprisingly quiet - the old town centre is pedestrian-only
- The suite is packed with artworks and antiques courtesy of co-owner, Saša Šekoranje
Lows
- No proper kitchen – just a very cool but rather impractical bar equipped only for simple breakfasts or an aperitivo
- You can't reach the suite by car; though golf cart transfers can be arranged
- The suite is on the second floor, with old wooden stairs and no elevator
- Rovinj can get very busy with tourists in summer – consider coming in spring or autumn
Best time to go
Rovinj is lovely all year. Of course most people think of coming here for a summery seaside holiday, but it can get very busy in Jul-Aug. Far nicer are the shoulder months, May-Jun and Sep-Oct, when the weather is good and the sea warm enough to swim, but without the crowds. Inland Istria is delightful in autumn, when the trees and vineyards take on golden and russet hues, and truffle festivals abound.
Our top tips
For breakfast overlooking the fishing harbour, head for Hotel Adriatic's open-air cafe, serving delights such as Eggs Florentine, oven-warm croissants, and waffles. During renovation in 2015, the hotel commissioned 14 contemporary artists to create paintings, photos and installations for its quirky indoor Brasserie Adriatic – take a look in, to spot several big bold canvases by your host, Saša Šekoranje.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests