The Colonsay Hotel
Isle of Colonsay, Argyll, Scotland, United Kingdom
Reviewed by
Michelle McDermott
If it’s the sound of silence you’re seeking, then the Isle of Colonsay might be just what the doctor ordered. Midway between Islay and Mull in the Scottish Hebrides, warmed by the Gulf Stream and long summer days, this 15-square-mile island has just one hotel, which can fairly claim to be Britain's remotest (though there are regular ferries and occasional flights from Oban). Endless sandy beaches, sea cliffs, migratory birds and rolling cycle lanes draw families and outdoors types alike, as well as stressed-out city folk. But a word of warning: this island will ever so slowly steal you away, reminding you of how life can be lived in the slow lane, and the longer you stay, the harder it will be to return to the outside world.
The Colonsay Hotel, a charming white-washed country house dating from the 1750s, is the island's social hub: a place for locals, yachtsmen and visitors to relax and enjoy a dram or 2 in front of crackling log fires. With a restaurant serving fresh seafood and homegrown veg, a bar and log room, a guest living room and just 9 simple, arts-and-craftsy bedrooms, there's ample space in this old house for everyone. You can kick back with a good book or sit in the gardens and listen to the tranquil sounds of island life: birdsong, braying sheep and trickling streams by the single track road.
The Colonsay Hotel, a charming white-washed country house dating from the 1750s, is the island's social hub: a place for locals, yachtsmen and visitors to relax and enjoy a dram or 2 in front of crackling log fires. With a restaurant serving fresh seafood and homegrown veg, a bar and log room, a guest living room and just 9 simple, arts-and-craftsy bedrooms, there's ample space in this old house for everyone. You can kick back with a good book or sit in the gardens and listen to the tranquil sounds of island life: birdsong, braying sheep and trickling streams by the single track road.
Highs
- The island’s emerald beauty and pure sea air act like an assault on your senses
- The hotel’s hidden nooks and crannies provide ample room to just be by yourself
- You'll find deserted golden dunes at Kiloran Bay; well worth the 90-minute walk in each direction
- The sunsets are magnificent - be camera-ready for the dramatic lights of the ‘golden hour’
- It's great for families: kids stay for free and will love beach combing, swimming, surfing and walking
Lows
- The island operates at its own pace and won’t be hurried; potentially frustrating for those who are used to a faster pace of life
- Stormy weather occasionally means delayed or cancelled ferries, as well as slow roads on the drive to Oban (as we found out the hard way)
- You're reliant on the hotel restaurant, as there are very few other eating options nearby
Best time to go
You take your chances with the weather whichever time of year you come, but the island enjoys a micro-climate, which is a few degrees warmer and drier than the mainland. We visited in early September and experienced glorious sunshine and warm temperatures. The Ceol Cholasa Folk Festival takes centre stage in late September, and the Island Spring Festival, with foraging, guided kayaking, cooking and art and craft workshops, takes place in May (it's advisable to get your booking in early for both these events). The hotel is normally closed in November, February and March.
Our top tips
The weather, though drier and sunnier than mainland Scotland, is still famously unpredictable. Bring books or games for rainy days, and sunscreen and light windproof clothes in summer.