The Folegandros Hideaways
Ano Meria, Folegandros, Greece
High on a Greek island hilltop, overlooking ancient terraces, white-cube houses and endless blue horizons, are these two simple but perfectly restored Cycladic cottages. They sit in the scattered hamlet of Ano Meria, at the end of the only road on Folegandros, which itself is one of the tiniest and remotest islands in the Cyclades archipelago. This is a place to disconnect and unwind, with the breeze in your hair, the sun on your face, and your toes in the turquoise plunge pool.
They are also among the most sympathetically refurbished village houses that we’ve seen. (Truth be told, we haven’t seen them in person yet; but we’ve studied the photographs, we know the location, we love the people behind it, and guest feedback is great). Expect cool rustic-chic interiors, stone-and-beam ceilings, micro-cement floors, tasteful wood and wicker furnishings and a few pop-art touches. Each has a large sunny terrace with a private pool and sunbeds, a cosy double bedroom, a shower bathroom, a living room with sofabed(s), and a small kitchen with all you need for home cooking - or you can wander along the lane to authentic Greek tavernas. Both are perfect as a couple's hideaway, or with little one(s) if you're up for some adventure: Villa 1 has two sofabeds, Villa 2 has one. Come for a lazy, sunny week of beach hikes, boat rides, al fresco meals, and a back-to-nature island lifestyle.
They are also among the most sympathetically refurbished village houses that we’ve seen. (Truth be told, we haven’t seen them in person yet; but we’ve studied the photographs, we know the location, we love the people behind it, and guest feedback is great). Expect cool rustic-chic interiors, stone-and-beam ceilings, micro-cement floors, tasteful wood and wicker furnishings and a few pop-art touches. Each has a large sunny terrace with a private pool and sunbeds, a cosy double bedroom, a shower bathroom, a living room with sofabed(s), and a small kitchen with all you need for home cooking - or you can wander along the lane to authentic Greek tavernas. Both are perfect as a couple's hideaway, or with little one(s) if you're up for some adventure: Villa 1 has two sofabeds, Villa 2 has one. Come for a lazy, sunny week of beach hikes, boat rides, al fresco meals, and a back-to-nature island lifestyle.
Highs
- Sunsets are breathtaking up here at 220m (650ft): inky seas below, ochre skies above, distant isles breaking a silvery horizon
- The wide sunny terraces have dining alcoves, reading spots, sunloungers and a small heated pool with those giddying views
- The island’s best sand beach, Agali, is below the villas: snorkel, jump on a boat, dine at the lovely Blue Sand Hotel (run by the villas' owners)
- Although it feels super-remote, Folegandros is actually only a couple of hours by ferry from Santorini, which has direct flights from UK and Europe
Lows
- Be aware you're in a tiny village: there's a minimarket, a couple of restaurants and a bakery, but not much else
- It's a 3km drive (or a 45-min walk) down to the nearest beach, so you'll want a car (but not use it much)
- The houses retains their traditional footprint: some rooms are compact
- The pool terraces lack natural shade (but each has a covered part)
Best time to go
May, June and September are pleasantly warm, not too windy, and delightfully uncrowded - an island this size fills up quickly. October is lovely too: days are shorter, but the sea is still wonderful for swimming. In July and August, the tourists and the temperatures increase, but there's almost always a breeze up here - and if the summer meltemi wind is blowing, you can feel rather buffeted by it. The villas are normally closed from November through April.
Our top tips
If you fancy eating out, just wander along the lane to one of three authentic Greek tavernas - Irini currently gets our vote - and take a sea-facing seat for the dramatic sunset. Expect local matsata (noodles) with pork and grated goats’ cheese, home-cooked lamb with okra, delicious aubergine and chick-pea salads. Often as not, the ‘menu’ will be delivered orally and you just say yes or no. Irini also doubles up as a mini-market, or you can drive 5km into Chora, the island’s main village, for a wider choice of shops.