Reviewed by
Helen Pickles
Famously built on 7 hills, Lisbon’s streets are calf-achingly steep. The slog to The Independente is no exception - but, wow, the views when you get here! From the Insolito rooftop bar you’re eye-level with the Moorish castle on the hillside opposite, while below you Baixa and Chiado sprawl down to the River Tagus.
Spread across a pair of aristocratic old townhouses - one a former ambassadorial residence - the 22 suites have a bohemian grandeur: high ceilings and parquet floors furnished with eclectic, vintage finds. In the common areas, a row of wooden tennis racquets hangs above a staircase, an old-fashioned washing machine sits beside reception, suitcases and antique typewriters are casually stacked in corners. Two tiny lifts with concertina metal gates - not for the claustrophobic - rattle up to the higher floors. It all adds to the laid-back, slightly lost-in-time vibe.
Townhouse No 83, with the majority of the rooms, feels like a private palácio. No 81 also houses the Independente Hostel (their budget sister property), which can be confusing but keeps the overall atmosphere youthful, and ensures good tips for exploring, whether that's atmospheric Alfama, Belém’s World Heritage Site or Bairro Alto’s bars. Don’t expect polished; do expect a fun vibe, creative food and Instagrammable views.
Spread across a pair of aristocratic old townhouses - one a former ambassadorial residence - the 22 suites have a bohemian grandeur: high ceilings and parquet floors furnished with eclectic, vintage finds. In the common areas, a row of wooden tennis racquets hangs above a staircase, an old-fashioned washing machine sits beside reception, suitcases and antique typewriters are casually stacked in corners. Two tiny lifts with concertina metal gates - not for the claustrophobic - rattle up to the higher floors. It all adds to the laid-back, slightly lost-in-time vibe.
Townhouse No 83, with the majority of the rooms, feels like a private palácio. No 81 also houses the Independente Hostel (their budget sister property), which can be confusing but keeps the overall atmosphere youthful, and ensures good tips for exploring, whether that's atmospheric Alfama, Belém’s World Heritage Site or Bairro Alto’s bars. Don’t expect polished; do expect a fun vibe, creative food and Instagrammable views.
Highs
- Excellent modern Portuguese food in the hipster restaurant Decadente and stunning views from Insolito rooftop bar
- The location, between Bairro Alto and Chiado, and steps from the metro, the Gloria Elevator and a miradouro (lookout)
- A relaxed, friendly atmosphere with staff who are passionate about their city and give you tips
- The characterful-filled suites: ours had grand Corinthian columns
- Mesmerising views from the rooftop bar, best admired with a sunset cocktail
Lows
- The restaurant is closed for renovations until April 2025; and the rooftop bar is only open in summer
- No twin rooms
- The lounge is shared with the hostel guests and can feel a bit student-y
- Vintage furniture can mean practicality is sacrificed for style
- No children under 16
Best time to go
It’s warm or hot throughout the year. Only December and January drop below the high teens, and the summer months swelter around 30 degrees. Autumn, after school holidays, or just after Easter are gorgeous times weather-wise, and avoid the peak-summer crowds.
Our top tips
When the city’s buzz gets too much, take the 30-minute train journey out to Cascais, a former fishing village turned civilised resort ringed by beaches. Wander the old town’s quiet narrow alleyways with their pastel-coloured houses and pretty window boxes. There’s also a startlingly modern gallery devoted to Paula Rego, Portugal’s leading figurative artist.