The Mudhouse
Anamaduwa, Kalpitiya & Wilpattu, Sri Lanka
Reviewed by
Sarah de Vere-Drummond
For adventurous travellers and nature lovers, this place is a real find. First off, the setting: you're in the middle of fascinating wetlands that are criss-crossed by a vast network of irrigation ‘tanks’ built around 2,000 years ago by the early Anuradhapura civilisation to store monsoon waters. These small lakes have sustained farming and fishing communities for centuries, not to mention an array of birdlife including hornbills, kingfishers and storks. A stay at the Mudhouse gives you a unique insight into this life, at a pace that has not changed much since ancient times.
Then there's the houses - spread extravagantly across 60 acres of forest. Each 'mudhouse' is in fact a cluster of simple, open-sided wattle and daub huts, with thatched roofs, dining/meditation areas and outdoor showers. Regardless of the size of your group, you get a cluster to yourself - making it perfect either for a couple wanting a romantic hideaway, or for a family (or group) after an action-packed, adventurous time.
Staff are local villagers, so the service is genuinely warm and friendly. We were impressed by the 'access all areas' ethos and loved helping to make okra curry on the earthenware oven, checking out the furniture workshops and wandering around the organic gardens and rice fields. With the paths lit up by oil lamps at night, and open fires flickering outside the huts, it is not surprising that the Guardian rated this "one of the most romantic destinations in the world". For us, the open-air adventure and the sense of freedom made this a holiday we will never forget.
Then there's the houses - spread extravagantly across 60 acres of forest. Each 'mudhouse' is in fact a cluster of simple, open-sided wattle and daub huts, with thatched roofs, dining/meditation areas and outdoor showers. Regardless of the size of your group, you get a cluster to yourself - making it perfect either for a couple wanting a romantic hideaway, or for a family (or group) after an action-packed, adventurous time.
Staff are local villagers, so the service is genuinely warm and friendly. We were impressed by the 'access all areas' ethos and loved helping to make okra curry on the earthenware oven, checking out the furniture workshops and wandering around the organic gardens and rice fields. With the paths lit up by oil lamps at night, and open fires flickering outside the huts, it is not surprising that the Guardian rated this "one of the most romantic destinations in the world". For us, the open-air adventure and the sense of freedom made this a holiday we will never forget.
Highs
- The passion that owners Tom and Kumar, and all the staff, have for this project is palpable and you’re guaranteed a warm welcome
- A wildlife haven with so much to discover: hundreds of bird species, plus monitor lizards, mouse deer and giant squirrels
- A gorgeous yoga pavilion waits in the centre of the lake, which is great for swimming, kayaking and cycling around
- Nearly everything you see is made and maintained on-site using traditional methods (no electricity); one of the most unique and inspiring places we’ve ever been
- Day trips can be arranged to Wilpattu Park (for leopards), Anawilundawa Sanctuary (for even richer birdlife) and the ancient city of Anuradhapura
- Almost everything is included in the rates
Lows
- A suitably basic back-to nature retreat: huts are mostly open to the elements, and there is no electricity or hot water - but, for the kind of guests who stay here, this is part of the charm!
- Some of the huts are quite a trek from the central dining area, but bikes are provided so you can whizz around in no time
- If you do visit during the rainy season (October to December), the area gets quite muddy and damp!
- It's extremely hard to find - deliberately
- Co-owner Tom does not guarantee a specific hut, he instead allocates the hut he thinks will be most suitable - he does know best!