The Old Coastguard
Mousehole, Cornwall, United Kingdom
Reviewed by
Abi Dare
This is a hotel with soul. Standing watch on the edge of Mousehole, the breezy blue and white building was once a lookout station for the local coastguard. It’s now owned by brothers Charles and Edmund Inkin, the duo behind the nearby Gurnards Head and the Brecon Beacons’ Felin Fach Griffin, who have brought their well-tested formula to this blissful corner of western Cornwall: a laid-back vibe, simple comforts and some seriously good grub.
Downstairs is a friendly restaurant, where Cornish meat, delicious veg and straight-from-the-sea treats are served up on delightfully mismatched tables. Dotted around the jumble of floors above are 14 cheery rooms, all stocked with books, blankets and biscuits to help you feel at home. Children are welcome, as are muddy paws and sandy toes, and you’ll often find locals propping up the bar or chatting over Sunday lunch. There’s also a sunny lounge fronted by huge windows that gaze out to sea, and lawns that tumble down towards the water’s edge. Lingering here, watching seagulls wheel overhead and yachts bob about on the waves, is the perfect way to while away the day. If you’re lucky, you might even spot dolphins frolicking in the spray.
Downstairs is a friendly restaurant, where Cornish meat, delicious veg and straight-from-the-sea treats are served up on delightfully mismatched tables. Dotted around the jumble of floors above are 14 cheery rooms, all stocked with books, blankets and biscuits to help you feel at home. Children are welcome, as are muddy paws and sandy toes, and you’ll often find locals propping up the bar or chatting over Sunday lunch. There’s also a sunny lounge fronted by huge windows that gaze out to sea, and lawns that tumble down towards the water’s edge. Lingering here, watching seagulls wheel overhead and yachts bob about on the waves, is the perfect way to while away the day. If you’re lucky, you might even spot dolphins frolicking in the spray.
Highs
- A wonderful escape in any season - in summer, sip wine under the palm trees; in winter, curl up with the papers and listen to waves crashing over the rocks outside
- Mousehole itself - a lovely little fishing village on the Penwith Peninsula, packed with galleries, cafés and delis
- Most rooms have sea views, and some face St Michael’s Mount across the bay. Many have private balconies or terraces, too
- Superb food - nothing fancy or pretentious, just local ingredients cooked exceptionally well
- This is a place for everyone: we saw couples relaxing on the terrace, dogs dozing by the bar, and children toddling around the garden
Lows
- Availability can be a problem in high season
- Don't expect super-stylish interiors; this is more of a cosy coastal restaurant with rooms
- No in-room TVs (with views like these, who needs them?), but you do get retro Roberts radios
- Breakfast is only served until 10am
- Mousehole is extremely popular with tourists in summer, so the roads can get very jammed
Best time to go
Summer is idyllic here - the garden blooms with hydrangeas, and on sunny days the nearby beaches are as beautiful as any in the Med. But don’t rule out winter visits, either: the bar, restaurant and lounge are wonderfully cosy, the rugged coastline is perfect for invigorating walks, and Mousehole puts on a famous display of festive lights in the run-up to Christmas. Bear in mind that local roads and towns are often jam-packed with tourists during school holidays, and you’ll need to book well ahead for weekend stays at any time.
Our top tips
Guests often spot marine wildlife from The Old Coastguard, but to increase your chances of a sighting book a catamaran trip with Marine Discovery Penzance (available from March to November). You’ll take to the waves in search of dolphins, porpoises, sunfish and grey seals, and you might even come across minke whales, basking sharks and leatherback turtles.