The Plantation Lodge
near Ngorongoro, Northern Circuit, Tanzania
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
This is a great place to break a journey between Arusha and the Serengeti, as well as being a superb experience in its own right. A bumpy dirt track cuts in from the dusty main road by way of a vast coffee plantation, past tin-roofed shacks and waving children, to end at a sweep of lawn so green and so perfect, it could be lifted from deepest Oxfordshire. Beyond this emerald carpet, exuberant stands of agave, acacia, mango and bamboo, towering silver oaks, jacarandas and ficus trees teeming with multi-coloured birdlife, remind you that, yes, you're still in Africa - and a delectable corner of it to boot.
The guest suites and cottages fan out around the original coffee lodge, which feels straight from the pages of Karen Blixen: polished terracotta and screed floors, high garden-facing French windows, Planter-style furniture, whirling overhead fans and masses of African memorabilia like carvings, wall hangings and watercolours of the bush. The mood is cool and measured, one of respite and retreat: Plantation Lodge offers a perfect foil to the exertion and exhilaration of a Tanzanian safari.
The guest suites and cottages fan out around the original coffee lodge, which feels straight from the pages of Karen Blixen: polished terracotta and screed floors, high garden-facing French windows, Planter-style furniture, whirling overhead fans and masses of African memorabilia like carvings, wall hangings and watercolours of the bush. The mood is cool and measured, one of respite and retreat: Plantation Lodge offers a perfect foil to the exertion and exhilaration of a Tanzanian safari.
Why we chose this partner
- Just a 30-minute drive to Lake Manyara and 20 minutes to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, one of Africa's most stunning wildlife parks
- Rooms - more like cottages, really - are big and airy, with plenty of space between you and your nearest neighbours
- German owner Renata and her staff run a tight ship: impeccably maintained grounds and friendly staff
- Wildlife aside, this is a great spot for cultural insight and much-needed downtime: perhaps a morning visit to a Maasai village or a Hadzabe hunt, then an afternoon by the pool
- It's also family friendly: there's a group house with children's facilities
Please be aware
- Because it's booked as part of a safari package, including all meals, transfers, private game drives and (hefty) park fees, prices work out pretty high - but you can be sure of a tip-top experience
- It's outside the park, but only a short drive (and this means no park fees on any 'down days')
- Larger groups sometimes book several suites and cottages, but you can always find a quiet spot if you prefer your own company
- WiFi can be patchy
- Needs to be booked well in advance
Best time to go
This area is amazing at any time of year but expect heavy rain if visiting during the 'Long Rains' which last from April through to May, sometimes on into June. There's a second bout of wet weather, the 'Short Rains', between October and early December. And, of course, the Serengeti migrations will be important in deciding when to visit. In February and March the green pasturelands of the southeastern end of the park are covered with calving wildebeest. June is the time to see the migration crossing the Grumeti river whilst the better known, perilous crossing of the Mara river at the Park's northern end takes place in July and August. But because most of Ngorongoro's animal life is sedentary you'll see masses of wildlife there at any time of year.
Our top tips
The Zanzibar Chest (Aidan Hartley) is a great holiday read: the early chapters give a fascinating insight into the area around Arusha during the early Nyerere years.