Tiger Rock
Pangkor Island, Penang & Pangkor, Malaysia
Reviewed by
Harriet Whiting
A small fishing island with great beaches off the coast of northwest Malaysia, Pangkor is reached by an easy 2.5-hour drive from Penang, then a short boat ride. Formerly the family home of Malaysians David and Rebecca Wilkinson, Tiger Rock is a unique collection of airy timber houses cocooned in Pangkor's jungle, and it's a very special set-up altogether. There's a relaxed, welcoming and lived-in vibe throughout: walls are adorned with Rebecca’s colourful artwork, and, like an exotic Gauguin painting, the shimmering greenery dominates the landscape, exploding into view through every door and window.
There are four houses with eight large rooms altogether, so you can book a room or rent a couple of houses or the whole place as preferred. Open-air communal spaces and comfortable interiors encourage a convivial house-party ambiance, and at the heart of the property is a stunning infinity pool, fringed by tropical plants and loungers. Come dusk, guests convene in the Pool House with its glowing lanterns to enjoy balmy evenings. Talented cook Bavanni rustles up an abundance of fine Malay cuisine - think fish curries, nasi lemak, chicken in pandan leaves - while husband and manager Mohan ensures the smooth running of the whole show. About as far as you can get from a bland 5-star hotel experience.
There are four houses with eight large rooms altogether, so you can book a room or rent a couple of houses or the whole place as preferred. Open-air communal spaces and comfortable interiors encourage a convivial house-party ambiance, and at the heart of the property is a stunning infinity pool, fringed by tropical plants and loungers. Come dusk, guests convene in the Pool House with its glowing lanterns to enjoy balmy evenings. Talented cook Bavanni rustles up an abundance of fine Malay cuisine - think fish curries, nasi lemak, chicken in pandan leaves - while husband and manager Mohan ensures the smooth running of the whole show. About as far as you can get from a bland 5-star hotel experience.
Highs
- Living in close quarters with nature, surrounded by giant butterflies, great hornbills, flying lemurs and wild boars
- Bavanni’s menu is absolutely mouth-watering, and can be tailored to your requirements. Prices include all meals and a delicious help-yourself afternoon tea
- Supremely tranquil both poolside and amongst the trees; there's also a tennis court for more active types
- Mr Mohan's interesting Pangkor island and local culture tour (included in the rates) is a must: boat yards and fish factories, ornate Chinese and Indian temples, authentic markets
- Great for families and couples alike; excellent service
Lows
- Some steep slopes and steps to navigate. If you've mobility issues we recommend staying in the Pool House
- The nearest beach is a 25-minute walk through forest trails, Mohan can also drive you to the best beaches on the island
- Jungle living means mosquitoes, ants and crawlies so be prepared with repellent
- More homely than hip decor, and we felt some interiors could do with a refresh on our most recent visit, but we adored the artful mix of bright fabrics, furniture, hanging lanterns, vintage toys...
Best time to go
Although there is no rainy season as such, April to July has less rain on Pangkor Island. The busiest time is mid October to mid Feb so guests should book well in advance over these periods. Note it is steamy most of the year.
Our top tips
Bring tools for relaxation such as books, iPods and speakers, and lots of loose informal clothing such sarongs as it is hot and humid. Binoculars would be useful for bird and monkey watching, and insect repellent is a must. If you'll want to play tennis, bring trainers.
Watch Bavanni at work and learn the secrets of her fantastic cooking, including her addictive sweet chilli sauce and tomato chutney.
Watch Bavanni at work and learn the secrets of her fantastic cooking, including her addictive sweet chilli sauce and tomato chutney.