With views over the treetops and a soothing, zen-like vibe, Treeline Urban Resort is an oasis in the heart of Siem Reap. Compact yet monumental, the design riffs on the region's blocky hotel architecture, with big square windows and heavy arches. But what sets it apart is the foliage pouring from the ledges, the subtle touches and the innovative artworks decorating the interior, making you realise this is far more than an ordinary hotel.
In fact, it’s a self-designed pet project by the Cambodian co-founder of the highly popularBrown Coffee chain, Hok Kang, a patron of the arts who has poured his passion for creativity into this hotel. From the tranquil airy courtyard to the riffle motif repeated everywhere in concrete mouldings and hardwood trim; from the unique works by local artists to the beautifully trained staff, this is a stay to savour.
A double-height reception welcomes you on arrival and leads into the courtyard, around which all 48 rooms are arranged. There's an excellent spa (i-escape guests each get a free massage), a restaurant serving generous breakfasts, and a noodle bar for fragrant daytime meals. But the piece de resistance is the first-floor infinity pool that gives the hotel its name, overlooking the treeline that fringes this quiet yet central spot on the river, five minutes to Pub Street and a leisurely 20-minute trundle to mighty Angkor.
Highs
- A steal by international standards for this level of service
- Genuinely welcoming – as opposed to faintly terrified – staff; everybody knows your name
- The infinity pool with views over the treetops
- Changing art exhibitions around the downstairs courtyard - recent shows include a retrospective of Cambodia’s greatest modern architect Vann Molyvann, and assorted local painters
- Good green credentials: from composting to cooking oil recycling and a quasi-evangelical rejection of single-use plastic
Lows
- Not nearly enough balconies, though other rooms have generous window seats instead
- Rooms on the south side may suffer some noise at night from the Temple Bar down the road, but management will fill those up last
- The Junior Suites, which we thought were the best rooms, are far too popular and fill up fast, so book early
Best time to go
November to February is the best but also the busiest time, with many relatively cool and dry days. March and April fry you alive! The rainy (or green) season (May-October) is also a good option: it never rains for very long, and the lush greenery all over the hotel comes into its own.
Our top tips
Preah Khan is a ‘managed ruin’ partly reclaimed by jungle - much like the overrun and photographed-to-death Ta Prohm but with better sightlines and an excellent visitors’ centre, plus you’ll have it almost to yourselves. At night, don’t miss the Old Shanghai-themed Miss Wong, the town’s most stylish cocktail bar, and look out for special DJ nights at Village Café.