Verana
Puerto Vallarta, Pacific Coast, Mexico
Reviewed by
Michelle McDermott
After a 50-minute taxi ride from Puerto Vallarta, a 30-minute panga boat ride (with nothing to hold onto!) and an energetic hike up a steep hill, arriving at Verana is a challenge that comes with an instant reward. An enchanting collection of hand-made houses awaits, embedded in the lush, terraced jungle landscape, and accompanied by stunning views of the Bay of Banderas and the small town of Yelapa below.
Created by Heinz Legler and his wife Veronique Lievre, a powerhouse design duo in the film industry, Verana started life as a truly offbeat boutique hotel. As Puerto Vallarta hit the map, it evolved into the type of place which attracts a faithful following of like-minded people: those with a love of beauty, intimacy and nature. You can book bird walks, whale watching and paradise picnics on a deserted beach - or just swing on a hillside hammock. But don't think you have to do without your creature comforts. With an open-air spa, a springwater pool, a candlelit restaurant and a yoga hut, this is a far cry from camping in the jungle.
Created by Heinz Legler and his wife Veronique Lievre, a powerhouse design duo in the film industry, Verana started life as a truly offbeat boutique hotel. As Puerto Vallarta hit the map, it evolved into the type of place which attracts a faithful following of like-minded people: those with a love of beauty, intimacy and nature. You can book bird walks, whale watching and paradise picnics on a deserted beach - or just swing on a hillside hammock. But don't think you have to do without your creature comforts. With an open-air spa, a springwater pool, a candlelit restaurant and a yoga hut, this is a far cry from camping in the jungle.
Highs
- Location, location, location: it's totally secluded and surrounded by greenery, with a carpet of blue sea below
- The price includes all meals and the adventurous Mexican fare is excellent
- Staff are handpicked from the surrounding areas, and are welcoming to a fault
- You can enjoy a blissful massage in the open-air spa while the hummingbirds and butterflies fly above you
- Fantastic for honeymooners and weddings (houses are very private!); the couples' starlit aromatherapy bath is sublime
Lows
- Getting to Verana from Puerto Vallarta is convoluted and can be problematic if you land late in the day
- Steep hillsides and a rough 15-minute hike from the dock / beach are problematic for the less agile
- Chances are you'll wake early to birdsong and sunrise, but fresh coffee and biscuits will be waiting on your terrace
- We didn't see any scorpions, but we were warned to keep our shoes on at all times and not to leave clothes lying around
- There are no other eateries within reach if you want a change of scene - though we very much doubt you will
Best time to go
The hotel is open each year from October to August. Temperatures stay very mild year round: December to February is coolest (around 18C at night to mid 20s by day); March to May is a touch warmer; and late June-October is the hottest (around 30-35C during the day) and can be wet for short spells. January and February is whale-watching season.
Our top tips
- Don't bring expensive or flashy items - it's not that sort of place, plus there are no in-room safes (and in some cases no doors!). That said, there's one safe at reception for small valuables but don't switch off completely and leave them behind!
- Do bring comfortable walking shoes for walking the rocky route to the beach, and carry your flip flops for once you get there