Reviewed by
Will Hide
This really charming, small hotel is set next to the Igreja de Sao Francisco, Salvador's most impressive church. Brimming with character, it's converted from 2 homes (one 17th-century, one 18th-century) that have been thoughtfully and very tastefully restored by the French owners.
Walking into the calm and cool lobby from the heat and bustle of Pelourinho outside, you'd think you'd stepped into a colonial Portuguese merchant's house circa 1700, a feeling accentuated by the staff's period-style uniforms. Beside the lobby there's a quiet restaurant that extends to the back of the house, and an outside courtyard and patio with a plunge pool and a few loungers. The lift, painted with an unusual Amazonian jungle frieze, takes you up to the 17 bedrooms and the lovely rooftop terrace - the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring. It's a wonderful place to soak up the days-gone-by atmosphere, and a great base from which to explore colourful Pelourinho.
Walking into the calm and cool lobby from the heat and bustle of Pelourinho outside, you'd think you'd stepped into a colonial Portuguese merchant's house circa 1700, a feeling accentuated by the staff's period-style uniforms. Beside the lobby there's a quiet restaurant that extends to the back of the house, and an outside courtyard and patio with a plunge pool and a few loungers. The lift, painted with an unusual Amazonian jungle frieze, takes you up to the 17 bedrooms and the lovely rooftop terrace - the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring. It's a wonderful place to soak up the days-gone-by atmosphere, and a great base from which to explore colourful Pelourinho.
Highs
- You couldn't be any closer to the action: you're right in the heart of the Pelourinho district, a historic UNESCO World Heritage site of cobblestoned streets, brightly-painted manor houses, elaborate baroque churches and vibrant nightlife
- Charming old building, renovated with sensitivity and style
- Large well-equipped bedrooms are all individually decorated and themed after Portuguese colonies
- Classy restaurant serving Bahian dishes with French-fusion influences, as well as large breakfasts, which are on offer until 11pm
Lows
- The Pelourinho district is very full-on with people trying to entice you into their shops, flog a lucky ribbon or just begging, and there's lots of noise from the bars and restaurants that spill out into the street well into the night - but that's what you come here for
- It may be chaotic outside but it's an oasis of calm inside. Some may find the hotel a touch quiet
Best time to go
If you really want to experience Salvador (particularly the Pelourinho district) at its loudest and most wild, go during Carnaval (February or March, depending on the year) which Brazilians say is more participatory than Rio's. It always begins on a Thursday night and ends the next Wednesday - in between 2 million party-goers hit the streets for an orgy of dancing and drinking. Throughout the year Tuesday nights in Pelourinho are like mini-festivals with live street music and dancing. The rainiest months in Salvador tend to be May-July.
Our top tips
If you're staying in Salvador for a few days and have the time it's worth taking a tour to experience a ceremony of Candomblé (the local religion that blends Catholicism with beliefs the slaves brought from Benin and Nigeria) or the ritualistic African-based dance and martial art of Capoeira.