Villa del Faro
San Jose a la Ribiera, Baja California, Mexico
Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
In 1989 a large extended family of LA-based artists, architects and writers bought 12 acres of land on the exquisite wild East Cape of Baja California Sur, where whales pass by and cacti bristle from the brush. They lived in tents on the endless empty beach, while painstakingly crafting Italianate dwellings around the trees and plants, creating a lush paradise from the desert. Mexican artisans handmade unique furniture, ironwork and carved mouldings for tiles and balustrades. The result is a loving and witty ensemble of vintage pieces, folk art, paintings for sale, fireplaces, rattan chairs, family collectibles and mementos. Immaculately tended tiered gardens, tropical plantings, terraces and palms, playful sculptures, paved walkways, neo-classical fountains, sit-outs, palapas and alcoves all lead to a lavish swimming pool, and on down to a pristine private beach on the turquoise Sea of Cortez.
In the mid-Noughties they opened up the beautifully furnished suites and the impossibly romantic beach cottage to paying guests, converting the ping pong room to a dining palapa and serving superior Mexican influenced fare. We are forever grateful that they did.
In the mid-Noughties they opened up the beautifully furnished suites and the impossibly romantic beach cottage to paying guests, converting the ping pong room to a dining palapa and serving superior Mexican influenced fare. We are forever grateful that they did.
Highs
- The superbly remote setting is in a tropical oasis that cascades down the hillside to the sea, far from the hustle and bustle of Cabo
- It's an endearingly hospitable set-up: the family, who still live on the premises, welcome you warmly into their haven, but give plenty of privacy
- There's a big swimming pool with extensive terraces and a pool house
- Genuine eco-principles were applied in the construction and continue to underpin the operation
- It's ideal for those who seek quiet, relaxed adventure in beautiful, arid surroundings, whether honeymooners, a family or small group of friends
Lows
- It's not for those wanting nightlife, shopping and golf courses - who should stick to Los Cabos
- This isn't a full service establishment where staff wait on you hand and foot; you're left to your own devices, though friendly advice is always on hand
- The beach immediately below Villa del Faro is rocky and can be rough, but fine for strong swimmers
- The rooms are supremely comfortable, but don't expect any of the latest electronic gadgets: you're "exquisitely off the grid" here
- It's seriously off the beaten track: access is via a long bumpy dirt road, so you'll need a car for activities and alternative lunch/dinner venues (of which there are few)
Best time to go
Most visitors come to Baja California Sur from December to around Easter, before the temperatures and humidity start to rise. It's also when the whale-watching is at its best, and the seas are calm and warm. Villa del Faro is closed from August until mid-October, which is the sticky hurricane season when the locals batten down the hatches and close up shop.
Our top tips
Bring binoculars for birding and whale watching, and sun protection apparel (the sun can be very fierce here). Your swimming togs are a must, with both the pool and the sea to splash in.