Varkala is a laid-back beach town on the Keralan coast, often compared to Goa thanks to its youthful, surfer lifestyle. It's been a favourite with backpackers for years and is becoming increasingly popular with general holiday-makers, most of whom stay on the colourful but busy North Cliff. Villa Jacaranda provides a friendly and comfortable alternative on the South Cliff, a tranquil area just five minutes’ walk from the dramatic Papanasham beach.
Fronted by two jacaranda trees and deep pink bougainvillea, the guesthouse is set on the bend of a quiet road, with views of the distant sea from its veranda. The four homely rooms are simply furnished and decorated in soft pastel colours. All have pretty, blue-railed verandas for reading and dining and there’s a large rooftop terrace with many a potted plant for the exclusive use of room 4, together with a lush garden with a small saltwater pool for everyone to enjoy. Owner-manager Ajay, who used to live in England, is a delight. He's a keen gardener and cook and is always around to look after you, though not in an obtrusive way. You can relax on one of two nearby beaches, visit local temples, go cliff-top shopping, join a yoga class, take surf lessons, have an Ayurvedic massage or chill out on the nearby Kerala backwaters.
Highs
- Excellent location on South Cliff, a 5-minute walk to the beach but quieter and more mellow than the more developed North Cliff
- The verandas and rooftop terrace provide pretty little outdoor spaces to eat, drink, read and watch the sun set into the just-glimpsed Arabian sea – ideal for escaping for a little while
- The small garden with saltwater pool and lily pond is full of fragrant flowers, dappled light, butterflies and birds
- Soulful singing from the nearby temple provides a lovely twice-daily soundtrack
- The welcoming owner Ajay and his staff are always on hand to recommend the best local eateries and things to see and do
Lows
- Varkala's very strong currents can make swimming at Papanasham beach dangerous, so pay close attention to the lifeguards and warning flags
- There are no phones for room service, or any common sitting or dining areas – this is somewhere you come for privacy, seclusion and relaxation
- Over 8s only
Best time to go
Villa Jacaranda is open all year round. September to February is peak season in this part of India and temperatures rarely exceed 26C - 28C, while March to May is much hotter. The monsoon season from June to mid-September is a romantic time to visit as everything is particularly lush and there are far fewer people about, but most days will bring heavy downpours.
Our top tips
There's an excellent Ayurvedic Centre (massages, treatments, yoga) next door, pop in for a rejuvenation massage or a blissful shirodhara treatment (warm-oil dripped on the forehead) – guests of the guesthouse get discounted rates.