Wild North Crofts
Sutherland, Scotland, United Kingdom
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
This is the very tip of Scotland, the top left-hand corner of our small island, a land of infinite splendour - of soaring mountains, of aquamarine seas, of views that stretch for miles under a vast sky. It is one of the most beautiful places you will encounter on our planet, a majestic wilderness that offers the chance to sweep away the concrete and reconnect with the wonder of nature. Those who like the middle of nowhere, who enjoy long journeys into the wilds, who like to swap the bright lights for the end of the road - this is the place for you.
As for these spectacular cottages, well, they’re the stuff of dreams, every bit as breathtaking as the land they sit in. Completely private and set far apart, Shore Croft is nearer the water, Hill Croft has broader views. Both have walls of glass that run along the front, framing views of Loch Eriboll - imperious stuff. Inside, an open-plan wonderland waits: concrete resin floors, roughly hewn wooden walls, Caithness stone bathrooms, magnificent kitchens for all occasions. You get long dining tables, Sonos music systems, leather sofas in front of cool wood-burners. There are 2 clawfoot baths in each, one inside, one outside on your huge terrace so you can soak under a starry sky. Come in winter and you may see the Northern Lights. Out of this world.
As for these spectacular cottages, well, they’re the stuff of dreams, every bit as breathtaking as the land they sit in. Completely private and set far apart, Shore Croft is nearer the water, Hill Croft has broader views. Both have walls of glass that run along the front, framing views of Loch Eriboll - imperious stuff. Inside, an open-plan wonderland waits: concrete resin floors, roughly hewn wooden walls, Caithness stone bathrooms, magnificent kitchens for all occasions. You get long dining tables, Sonos music systems, leather sofas in front of cool wood-burners. There are 2 clawfoot baths in each, one inside, one outside on your huge terrace so you can soak under a starry sky. Come in winter and you may see the Northern Lights. Out of this world.
Highs
- This wildly beautiful landscape and the ever-changing light - you can sit for hours watching nothing at all, a strangely satisfying pastime. We especially loved watching storms pass; once you’ve seen one, you’ll want more!
- Heaven for a romantic escape; bike and hike empty beaches and majestic mountains, then hunker down for candlelit evenings
- You’re at the end of the world with little to do - this is a seriously relaxing spot, and the journey in is stunning, cutting through the middle of nowhere
- Owners Robbie and Fiona are passionate about the environment and both cottages are carbon negative courtesy of wind turbines, solar panels and local sheep, whose wool insulates the roofs
- Beautiful kitchens and you can arrange to have meals waiting for you in the freezer
Lows
- Extremely remote (2-3 hours' drive from Inverness) with unpredictable weather
- Weekly stays (Sat-Sat) only - though given the spectacular remoteness, you wouldn't want to stay less
- The beaches may be pure white sand but the water is icy cold, so bring a wet or dry suit if you want to swim, then join the locals who like to bodyboard in good weather
- There’s no nightlife - a couple of restaurants in high season and that’s about it; the nearest pubs are 5km away in Durness
Best time to go
In summer there’s more to do and the days are longer - it’s light until 11pm. You can get across to Cape Wrath and the restaurants will be open. Midges come from June to August, but they’re much worse to the south. However, bring Jungle Formula with you. In winter, snow falls further south and you may not be able to get here, but most of the time you'll be fine - the west coast is wet, it’s the interior that gets the snow. We can’t think of a better place to hunker down for a week in midwinter and you may see the Northern Lights.
Remember the weather is entirely unpredictable all year round, so coming in high summer does not guarantee sun. Having said as much, on our last visit it seemed the whole of Britain was drowning from torrential rain. But not Durness. On the contrary, your intrepid reporter was playing some very bad golf and getting sunburnt in the process!
Remember the weather is entirely unpredictable all year round, so coming in high summer does not guarantee sun. Having said as much, on our last visit it seemed the whole of Britain was drowning from torrential rain. But not Durness. On the contrary, your intrepid reporter was playing some very bad golf and getting sunburnt in the process!