If you can't decide whether to stay in Madeira's capital Funchal, or somewhere further out along its wild and dramatic coast, this boutique hotel combines the best of both. You're 20 minutes' drive from the capital town's glitzy resorts, eateries and its international airport; yet, tucked away here within a verdant banana plantation on a sunshine-soaked hillside, you feel miles from the rest of the world.
As you approach the sleepy seaside town of Ponta do Sol, you can’t miss this pink palace, peeking out from its hilltop perch. With its flamboyant style and unashamed nods to Romanticism and the sublime, this former summer residence of the noble Zino family is the antithesis of sprawling, cookie-cutter hotel experiences. And it's deeply comfortable too. Expect sumptuous modernist furnishings, cosy pastel bedrooms, and eye-catching features; even the swimming pool is pink.
After winding your way up the steep hill, friendly staff fall over themselves to greet you. They’ll offer you an espresso and a pastel de nata, before beckoning you to check out the sensational terrace views stretching out towards the endless ocean.
As you approach the sleepy seaside town of Ponta do Sol, you can’t miss this pink palace, peeking out from its hilltop perch. With its flamboyant style and unashamed nods to Romanticism and the sublime, this former summer residence of the noble Zino family is the antithesis of sprawling, cookie-cutter hotel experiences. And it's deeply comfortable too. Expect sumptuous modernist furnishings, cosy pastel bedrooms, and eye-catching features; even the swimming pool is pink.
After winding your way up the steep hill, friendly staff fall over themselves to greet you. They’ll offer you an espresso and a pastel de nata, before beckoning you to check out the sensational terrace views stretching out towards the endless ocean.
Highs
- Our Sea View Suite was lovely, with a large balcony: the perfect spot for an achingly romantic sundowner
- We also loved sitting with a book on the traditionally paved calçada (terrace), looking out to sea
- Breakfast is an indulgent affair, and fabulous dinners are accompanied by stunning sunsets
- Service was faultlessly friendly: no stuffiness or resting on historic laurels here
- Nearby Ponta do Sol has a dramatic pebbled beach, a man-made lagoon warm enough for a dip, and pop-up bars and restaurants
Lows
- The drive up to the hotel involves a steep hill - nervous drivers might like to let their travelling partner take the wheel for this one
- Though the dusky pink pool looks great on Instagram, it’s a little small to swim in
- Those fabulous sea views are somewhat marred by a network of thick electrical cables
- The hamlet of Lugar de Baixo, where the hotel is set, has little beyond a couple of eateries down by the pebble beach
Best time to go
Given the island’s subtropical status, it’s common to experience all four seasons in one day. You can bank on balmy evenings and brilliantly sunny days during spring, so aim to book between March to May if you can - this is when the foliage is particularly bright and beautiful.
Our top tips
It’s a super easy drive over to Funchal, where you’ll find an array of shops, bars, restaurants and the famed marina - perfect for an evening stroll after a fabulous dinner, before heading back to your private palace in the mountains. Funchal’s food scene is really starting to bubble, with Michelin-starred food at William and Il Gallo D’Oro, or seriously inventive menus with local ingredients at Akua, KAMPO and Informal.