Reviewed by
Kate Darnton
Staying at Ahilya is like visiting the home of that wealthy, eccentric and extremely tasteful aunt you always wished you had. Three graceful, Balinese-style villas are stuffed to the gills with the most fabulous treasures, carefully curated from the owner’s lifetime of exotic travels: African masks, Hindu statuettes, Burmese bowls, a gilded altarpiece. Every nook holds something old and beautiful to be admired. The villas - each with 2-4 airy rooms - are tucked amidst lush, tropical gardens, but give out onto the wide-open bay, where fishermen work and cetaceans play. (We watched dolphins as we sipped our sundowners.) Elsewhere, two crystal-clear swimming pools provide cool retreat from the strong Goan sun.
The food is inventive and delicious, produced with painstaking attention to each guest’s individual needs and preferences. Service could not be more gracious. If it’s adventure you crave, there are plenty of attractions outside Ahilya’s bougainvillea-covered walls: sturdy, colonial-era forts and churches, flashy new art galleries and museums, glittering night markets. But you'll be relieved to return to Ahilya in the evening - a serene, intimate and elegant retreat for the most discerning guests.
The food is inventive and delicious, produced with painstaking attention to each guest’s individual needs and preferences. Service could not be more gracious. If it’s adventure you crave, there are plenty of attractions outside Ahilya’s bougainvillea-covered walls: sturdy, colonial-era forts and churches, flashy new art galleries and museums, glittering night markets. But you'll be relieved to return to Ahilya in the evening - a serene, intimate and elegant retreat for the most discerning guests.
Highs
- The peace, tucked away from Goa's tourist hordes
- All the fine touches and impeccable service of a top-class hotel, yet the warmth and intimacy of a family homestay
- A gorgeous infinity pool and a spa offering massages
- Great for all - couples, friends, a family or a small group. You can request 1 room, 1 villa, even the whole place, depending on your needs
- Feels like an Ali Baba’s cave, filled with handsome antiques, handicrafts and wall art
Lows
- Don’t come for the local beaches. The nearest is a working fishermen's beach - it’s scenic (from a distance) but dirty. Decent ones are a day trip away
- With such personalised service, menus are planned well in advance; lunches and dinners have to be requested with 2 hours' notice
- The outdoor dining area can get very hot (though eating indoors, under the AC, is an option)
- A strict payment and cancellation policy
Best time to go
Goa’s peak season begins in late November and runs until mid-February. Weather-wise, that’s the nicest time to visit - but also the busiest. Perhaps the best time is mid-January, once the throngs of tourists have left but the weather is still fine. That said, with its air-conditioned rooms, swimming pools and sea breezes, Ahilya can manage summer better than many Goan properties. It is closed during the monsoons (July and August).
Our top tips
Don't miss Ingo’s famous Saturday Night Market at Arpora Village for fabulous food, clothing and jewellery, live music, and dancing late into the night.